abbreviations 

Magic ring:  Magic ring 

SC:  Single Crochet               

İnc:  Increase 

Dec:  Decrease 

Blo:  Knitting from the back lobe 

Flo:  Knitting from the front lobe 

Ch:  Chain 

PATTERN 

Head 

1) Magic ring into 6sc 

2) 6inc 12sc 

3) (1sc 1inc) * 6 18sc 

4) (2sc 1inc) * 6 24sc 

5) (3sc 1inc) * 6 30sc 

6) (4sc 1inc) * 6 36sc 

7) (5sc 1inc) * 6 42sc 

8) (6sc 1inc) * 6 48sc 

9) (7sc 1inc) * 6 54sc 

10-20) 54sc 

21) 13sc (1sc 1inc) * 5 7sc (1sc 1inc) * 5 14sc 64sc 

22-26) 64sc 

27) 13sc (1sc 1dec) * 5 7sc (1sc 1dec) * 5 14sc 54sc 

More of your head 

28) (7sc 1dec) * 6 48sc 

29) (6sc 1dec) * 6 42sc 

30) (5sc 1dec) * 6 36sc 

31) (4sc 1dec) * 6 30sc 

32) (3sc 1dec) * 6 24sc 

33) (2sc 1dec) * 6 18sc 

10 mm eyes to be fitted between rows 18 and 19 

Ears 

1) Magic ring into 6sc 

2) (1sc 1inc) * 3 9sc 

3) (2sc 1inc) * 3 12sc 

4) (3sc 1inc) * 3 15sc 

5) (4sc 1inc) * 3 18sc 

6) (5sc 1inc) * 3 21sc 

7-9) 21sc 

10) (6sc 1inc) * 3 24sc 

11-21) 24sc 

22) (6sc 1dec) * 3 21sc 

23-25) 21sc 

26) (5sc 1dec) * 3 18sc 

27) (4sc 1dec) * 3 15sc 

28) 15sc 

Tear off the rope long) 

Leg and body 

1) Magic ring into 6sc 

2) 6inc 12sc 

3) (3sc 1inc) * 3 15sc 

4-27) 15sc Change color (switch to yellow) 

28) 15sc 

29) 15 sc as flo 

30-40) 15sc 

41) The second leg will be knitted in the same way and we will connect 4 chains. 

42) 38sc 

43-50) 38sc 

51) 38sc as blo 

Change color (switch to gray) 

Continue where Blo is held 

52-60) 38sc 

61) 1dec 36sc from the sides 

62) 1dec 34sc from the sides 

63) Sides from 1dec to 32sc 

64) Sides from 1dec to 30sc 

65) 1dec 28sc from the sides 

66) 1dec 26sc from the sides 

67) 1dec 24sc from the sides 

68) Put the arms on the sides and work together 24sc 

69) 1dec 22sc from the sides 

70) sides from 1dec to 20sc 

71) 1dec 18sc from the sides 

Cut the rope) 

Arms 

1) Magic ring into 6sc 

2) 6inc 12sc 

3-23) 12sc Change color (switch to gray) 

24-28) 12sc 

Cut and finish the rope) 

Note: yellow HDC will be done on the flo on the leg) 

Note: when the head is finished eye contouring will be done) 

Straps Finally, starting with the center of the back of the rabbit sl-st by starting the front side of the chain by pulling the front part by adjusting the single crochet and 10sc or back to the back of the chain and sl-st pull. 

Shoe 

1) Magic ring into 6sc 

2) 6inc 12 sc 

3) (1sc 1inc) * 6 18sc 

4) (2sc 1inc) * 6 24sc 

5-6) 24sc 

7) 8sc (4dec) 8sc 20sc 

8) 6sc (4dec) 6sc 16sc 

9-10) 16sc 

11) Make the reverse single crochet leave the rope long. 

Put your feet up and upright. 

If the tip of the shoe is filled with a little fiber looks better. 

General recommendations 

 The toy is knitted in a spiral. To see where a new row starts, it is convenient to use a marker. 

The row ends before the loop where the marker is inserted. Any sufficiently thin and contrasting thread is suitable as a marker. The marker is alternately thrown on the front side, then on the wrong side. 

 Since when crocheting, the fabric tends to skew to the right and the beginning of the row is shifted, from time to time it is necessary to correct the position of the marker – the beginning of the row. To do this, knit an offset loop – one or more additional single crochet stitches at the end of the knitted row and move the marker. Now the first stitch in the row will be the one following the last knitted offset stitch. The offset loop is not involved in the description of the rows. 

 The toy is knitted on both sides of the loop, unless otherwise specified. 

 Make sure you knit tightly enough, otherwise the filler will show through the knitted fabric. To do this, use a hook that is much thinner than recommended by the yarn manufacturer. 

 You can choose any yarn and a suitable crochet hook. The thicker the yarn, the larger the toy will be. All other materials – cotter pin connection, eyes, you will need to choose yourself, in accordance with the size of the resulting toy. 

Required materials and tools 

basic yarn 

– Nakolen 5 from Nako, 49% wool, 51% acrylic, 500m / 100g white. 

It will take about 30 g. 

Can be replaced with any smooth yarn (wool, semi-wool, acrylic, cotton, cotton with acrylic) with a thickness of 400-500 m / 100 g additional yarn for clothing 

– Nakolen 5 from Nako, 49% wool, 51% acrylic, 500m / 100g. 

Any color (quite a bit). 

I have: gray, milk, orange, green yarn Iris for carrots, 100% cotton, 125m / 20g 

– orange and green (quite a bit) yarn for a basket – 30% wool, 70% PAN, 125m / 50g, Slonim KPF, Belarus. Can be replaced with any smooth yarn (wool, semi-wool, acrylic, cotton, cotton with acrylic) 250-300 m / 100 g thick, or knit from the main yarn in 2 threads. Any color of your choice 

crochet hook 1mm for knitting a rabbit, 0.7mm 

– for carrots, 1.5 mm 

– for a basket knitting needles sock or circular (on a fishing line) for clothes 2.25 mm synthetic filler tweezers or sticks for stuffing plastic or fiber discs for cotter pin fastening of the head and lower legs: 12 mm – 3 pcs (in the legs and neck), 15 mm – 2 pcs (in the lower legs), 20 mm – 1 pc (in the head), T-shaped cotter pin 2.0 * 20 mm – 3 pcs, metal washers – 6 pcs (only if you use cardboard or plywood discs) 

Cotter driver or round nose pliers for tightening the cotter pins 

glass eyes, black glossy 6 mm on a loop (or pin) or black half-beads for eyes – 2 pcs. 

black and white thread for the decoration of the face and eyes. Suitable yarn Iris, 100% cotton, 125m / 20g 

needle 

scissors 

materials you are used to for tinting and a brush or cotton swab (optional) 

buttons, beads, etc. – for decoration 

The specified yarn and materials will make a toy about 14 cm in size (up to the crown of the head). If you are planning to knit a rabbit with a different yarn, you may need discs and eyes in different sizes. 

You can pick up discs as follows. Work 5 rows (up to 30 sc) for the base yarn pattern in the classic circle pattern. 

disc for legs and neck is equal to a circle in 3 rows 

the disc for the lower legs is equal to a circle in 4 rows 

the disc for the head is slightly less than or equal to a 5-row circle. 

Abbrevations

• sc – single crochet 

• hdc – half double crochet 

• dc – double crochet 

• sl-st – slip stitch

• ch – chain

• inc – increase sc (2 sc in one loop) 

• dec – decrease sc (knit 2 sc together) 

• knit – front loop 

• purl – purl loop 

• inc knit – an increase in the front loop: knit two from one loop (preferably from the loop of the bottom row) 

• dec knit – decrease with the front loop: knit two loops together with the front 

• (…) * N – repeat what is indicated in brackets N times 

• (…) in one loop – knit what is in brackets in one loop 

• add. marker – additional marker (place an additional marker at the specified location). 

Lower legs 

The marker runs along the left side of the foot. When deflecting the marker, knit an offset loop. The description indicates after which row of the offset loop I did. If this does not work for you, adjust the position of the marker yourself. 

1 p: 6 sc into magic ring 

2 p: inc * 6 = 12 sc 

3 p: (Sc, inc) * 6 = 18 sc 

4 p: (2sc, inc) * 6 = 24 sc 

5 p: (11 sc, inc) * 2 = 26 sc 

6-9 p (4 rows): 26 sc, ch 

10 p: 4 sc, dec, sc, dec, 17 sc = 24 sc 

Row 10 decreases in the middle of the top of the foot. Make sure this is the case. 

11 p: 24 sc 

12 p: (dec, 10 sc) * 2 = 22 sc 

13 p: 22 sc 

14 p: (dec, 9 sc) * 2 = 20 sc 

15 p: 5 sc, cotter pin marker, 15 sc = 20 sc 

16 p: 20 sc 

17 p: (dec, 8 sc) * 2 = 18 sc 

18-19: 2 rows of 18 sc (photo 1-2) 

Insert cotter pin. We begin to fill the part tightly. (photo 3) 

20 p: dec * 9 = 9 sc 

21 p: Dec * 3 (not a full row) = 6 sc 

Pull off the remaining hinges. Cut the thread, fasten. 

Upper legs 

The marker runs along the inner side surface. When deflecting the marker, knit an offset loop. I didn’t need to knit the offset loops. 

1 p: 6 sc into magic ring 

2 p: Inc * 6 = 12 sc 

3 p: (Sc, inc) * 6 = 18 sc 

4-7 p (4 rows): 18 sc 

8 p: 3 dec, 12 sc = 15 sc 

9-10 p (2 rows): 15 sc 

Fill in the tip of the foot, do not fill in the foot further. Decreases in the next rows should be in the middle of the inside of the foot. 

11 p: 1 sc, dec, 12 sc = 14 sc 

12-13 p (2 rows): 14 sc sc 

14 p: 1 sc, dec, 11 sc = 13 sc 

15-16 p (2 rows): 13 sc 

17 p: 1 sc, dec, 10 sc = 12 sc 

18-19 p (2 rows): 12 sc 

20 p: 1 sc, dec, 9 sc = 11 sc 

21-22 p (2 rows): 11 sc 

23 p: 1 sc, dec, 8 sc = 10 sc 

24 p: 10 sc 

25 p: 4 sc, 5hdc, sc = 10 sc 

Cut the thread, fasten Remove the main marker. Mark the fifth loop of the row with an additional marker. 

Tail 

You don’t have to follow the marker. 

1 p: 6 sc into magic ring 

2 p: Inc * 6 = 12 sc 

3 p: (Sc, inc) * 6 = 18 sc 

4 p: (2 sc, inc) * 6 = 24 sc 

5-8 p (4 rows): 24 sc 

9 p: (2 sc, dec) * 6 = 18 sc 

10 p: (1 sc, dec) * 6 = 12 sc 

Cut the thread. Anchor 

Legs 

You don’t have to follow the marker. 

1 p: 6 sc into magic ring 

2 p: inc * 6 = 12 sc 

3 p: (1 sc, inc) * 6 = 18 sc 

4 p: 18 sc 

5 p: 1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc) * 2, 10 sc = 21 sc 

6 p: 2 sc, inc, (3 sc, inc) * 2, 10 sc = 24 sc 

7 p: 24 sc Cut the thread at the first leg, fasten. Mark stitch 13 of row Do not cut the thread on the second leg! 

Torso 

We continue to knit along the second leg in pivoting rows. 

1 p: 5 sc, ch, turn, 

2 p: 6 purl sc, ch, turn 

3 p: 6 sc, ch, turn, 

4 p: 6 purl sc, ch, turn 

5 p: 6 sc 

We apply the first leg (front side to front) 

Starting from the marked stitch, knit 6 sc in two pieces. Remove the marker of the first leg. 

6 p: 18 sc on the first leg, 6 sc on the bridge, 18 sc on the second leg, 3 sc on the bridge = 48 sc 

Rearrange marker 

Further, the marker runs along the middle of the back. If the marker is rejected, you need to knit an offset loop. The description indicates after which row of the offset loop I did. If this does not work for you, adjust the position of the marker yourself. 

7 p: 3 sc across the jumper, 4 sc, inc, (7 sc, inc) * 5 = 54 sc 

8 p: 54 sc 

9 p: 7 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc) * 2, 10 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc) * 2, 7 sc = 60 sc 

10 p: 3 sc, inc, (7 sc, inc) * 2, 6 sc, (inc, 2sc) * 3, 5sc, (inc, 7 sc) * 2, inc, 3 sc = 69 sc 

11 p: 69 sc 

12 p: 30 sc, (inc, 3sc) * 3, 27 sc = 72 sc, ch 

13-18 (6 rows): 72 sc, 1 ch In the next row we knit a tail – check the position of the marker! 

R19: 69 sc, attach ponytail – knit 3 sc ponytails and body together = 72 sc 

R20: 3 sc ponytail and body together, 66 sc, 3 sc on loose ponytail loops = 72 sc 

21 p: 3 sc on untied ponytail loops, 69 sc = 72 sc 

22 p: 72 sc 

Attach the lower legs 

23 p: 2 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec, 50 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec, 2 sc = 68 sc 

24 p: 68 sc, ch 

25 p: 1 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 52 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 1 sc = 64 sc 

26 p: 64 sc 

27 p: 3 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec, 40 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec, 3 sc = 60 sc 

28 p: 60 sc, ch 

29 p: 2 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 40 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 2 sc = 56 sc 

30 p: 56 sc 

R 31: 15 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 15 sc = 52 sc 

R 32: 52 sc 

33 p: 15 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec, 15 sc = 48 sc 

34-35 R (2 rows): 48 sc, ch 

Begin to stuff the torso very tightly. Pay special attention to the legs, they should not be empty! If you didn’t stuff the ponytail before knitting, don’t forget to do it now. Then stuff the torso while knitting. 

36 p: 3 sc, dec, (6 sc, dec) * 5, 3 sc = 42 sc 

37 p: 42 sc 

38 p: (5 sc, dec) * 6 = 36 sc 

R 39: 36 sc 

40 p: 2 sc, dec, (4 sc, dec) * 5, 2 sc = 30 sc, ch 

In the next row we knit the upper legs – check the position of the marker! 

R 41: 6 sc, 5 sc with upper foot loops starting at marked buttonhole, 8 sc, 5 sc with upper foot loops starting at marked buttonhole, 6 sc = 30 sc 

Remove additional markers on the feet. 

R 42: 6 sc, 5 sc on the remaining untied loops of the upper foot, 8 sc, 5 sc on the remaining loops of the upper foot, 6 sc = 30 sc 

43 p: 30 sc 

44 p: (dec, 3 sc) * 6 = 24 sc 

45 p: 24 sc 

46 p: (2 sc, dec) * 6 = 18 sc 

Insert cotter pin with disc. 

47 p: (1 sc, dec) * 6 = 12 sc 

48 p: dec * 6 

Cut the thread, fasten Remove the marker. 

Ears 

Ears for Zefirkin rabbit and Donut bunny in row 27 are knitted the same way. For the rabbit, you will need to knit an additional 28 row. 

The marker runs along the side fold. If the marker is rejected, you need to knit an offset loop. The description indicates after which row of the offset loop I did. If this does not work for you, adjust the position of the marker yourself. 

1 p: 6 sc 

2 p: Inc * 6 = 12 sc 

3 p: (Sc, inc) * 6 = 18 sc 

4 p: 18 sc 

5 p: (8sc, inc) * 2 = 20 sc 

6 p: 20 sc 

7 p: (9sc, inc) * 2 = 22 sc 

8-14 p (7 rows): 22 sc, ch 

15 p: (dec, 9 sc) * 2 = 20 sc 

16-18 p (3 rows): 20 sc 

19 p: (dec, 8 sc) * 2 = 18 sc 

20-21 p (2 rows): 18 sc 

22 p: (dec, 7 sc) * 2 = 16 sc 

23-24 p (2 rows): 16 sc 

25 p: (dec, 6 sc) * 2 = 14 sc 

26 p: 8 sc, skip 6 sc (fold the ear in half, the missing columns remain inside) = 8 sc 

27 p: 8 sc 

For a bunny (with standing ears), cut the thread, fasten. Mark: 

* for the right ear – the first loop 

* for the left ear – the fourth loop 

For the rabbit (with hanging ears), we continue to knit 

* for the right ear: 

28 p: 4 hdc, 4 sc = 8 sc 

Cut the thread, fasten. Mark the first loop. 

* for the left ear: 

28 p: 4 sc, 4 hdc = 8 sc 

Cut the thread, fasten. Mark the fourth loop 

Spout 

Dial 4 ch. From the second loop from the hook, knit: 

1 p: 2 sc, 3 sc in the last loop, on the other side of the chain: 1 sc, inc = 8 sc 

2 p: 8 sc 

Cut the thread, fasten. Mark the fourth loop 

Zefirkin rabbit head 

The marker runs down the middle of the back of the head. If the marker is rejected, you need to knit an offset loop. The description indicates after which row of the offset loop I did. If this does not work for you, adjust the position of the marker yourself. 

1 p: 6 sc into magic ring 

Do not overtighten the hole. It will be needed to attach the head. 

2 p: Inc * 6 = 12 sc 

3 p: Inc * 12 = 24 sc 

4 p: (sc, inc) * 12 = 36 sc 

5 p: (5 sc, inc) * 6 = 42 sc 

6 p: 3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc) * 5, 3 sc = 48 sc 

7 p: (7 sc, inc) * 6 = 54 sc 

8 p: 4 sc, inc, (8 sc, inc) * 5, 4 sc = 60 sc 

9 p: 29 sc, 2sc behind the front wall (mark back walls 30 and 31 sts with an additional marker), 29 sc = 60 sc 

10-16 p (7 rows): 60 sc, 2ch 

In the next row we knit a nose. Check the symmetry! 

P 17: 28 sc, 4 sc with nose sts starting from the marked loop, 28 sc = 60 sc 

18 p: 11 sc, (dec, 2 sc) * 4, dc for the marked back wall 30 loops of the 9th row (one more loop in the row was formed), 1 sc, 4sc along the remaining un-knitted nose loops, 1 sc, dc for the marked back wall of 31 loops of 9 rows (another loop in a row was formed), (2 sc, dec) * 4, 11 sc = 54 sc (52 sc + 2 loops were formed during the formation of the muzzle) 

Remove add. P marker: 10 sc, 4 sc together with the left ear starting from the marked loop, 9 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 9 sc, 4sc together with the right ear starting from the marked loop, 10 sc = 52 sc 

Remove add. lug markers 

19 p: 10 sc, 4 sc on the ear, 1 sc (dec, 2 sc) * 2, 6 sc, (2 sc, dec) * 2, 1sc, 4 sc on the ear, 10 sc = 48, ch 

21-26 p (6 rows): 48 sc, 1 ch 

We attach the head to the body: in the hole left in the first row of the head, insert the cotter pin from the body, put on the disc, tighten the cotter pin. You don’t have to follow the marker further 

27 p: 3sc, dec, (6 sc, dec) * 5, 3 sc = 42 sc 

28 p: 42 sc 

29 p: (5 sc, dec) * 6 = 36 sc 

30 p: 2 sc, dec (4 sc, dec) * 5, 2 sc = 30 sc 

Begin to fill the head moderately tightly. Pay special attention to the muzzle and cheeks. Be careful not to tear the yarn where the muzzle is formed. Stuff as you knit. 

31 p: (3 sc, dec) * 6 = 24 sc 

32 p: (2 sc, dec) * 6 = 18 sc 

At this stage, you can put off knitting and finish the head after decoration. This makes it easier to hide all the threads and adjust the uniformity of the packing. Or continue knitting, if that’s more convenient for you. 

33 p: (1 sc, dec) * 6 = 12 sc 

34 p: dec * 6 = 6 sc 

Cut the thread. Pull off the remaining loops, fasten 

Donut Bunny Head 

We knit up to 19 rows in the same way as the head of a rabbit. The marker runs down the middle of the back of the head. If the marker is rejected, you need to knit an offset loop. The description indicates after which row of the offset loop I did. If this does not work for you, adjust the position of the marker yourself. 

1 p: 6 sc into magic ring 

Do not overtighten the hole. It will be needed to attach the head. 

2 p: Inc * 6 = 12 sc 

3 p: Inc * 12 = 24 sc 

4 p: (sc, inc) * 12 = 36 sc 

5 p: (5 sc, inc) * 6 = 42 sc 

6 p: 3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc) * 5, 3 sc = 48 sc 

7 p: (7 sc, inc) * 6 = 54 sc 

8 p: 4 sc, inc, (8 sc, inc) * 5, 4 sc = 60 sc 

9 p: 29 sc, 2sc behind the front wall (mark back walls 30 and 31 sts with an additional marker), 29 sc = 60 sc 

10-16 p (7 rows): 60 sc, 2ch 

In the next row we knit a nose. Check the symmetry! 

P 17: 28 sc, 4 sc with nose sts starting from the marked loop, 28 sc = 60 sc 

18 p: 11 sc, (dec, 2 sc) * 4, dc for the marked back wall 30 loops of the 9th row (another loop was formed in the row), 1 sc, 4sc along the remaining not knitted loops of the nose, 1 sc, dc for the marked back wall 31 loops of 9 rows (one more loop in a row formed), (2 sc, dec) * 4, 11 sc = 54 sc (52 sc + 2 loops were formed during the formation of the muzzle) 

Remove add. marker 

19 p: 23 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 23 sc = 52 sc 

20 p: 15 sc, (dec, 2 sc) * 2, 6 sc, (2 sc, dec) * 2, 15sc = 48, ch 

21-26 p (6 rows): 48 sc, 1 ch 

We attach the head to the body: in the hole left in the first row of the head, insert the cotter pin from the body, put on the disc, tighten the cotter pin. 

27 p: 3sc, dec, (6 sc, dec) * 5, 3 sc = 42 sc 

28 p: 42 sc 

29 p: (5 sc, dec) * 6 = 36 sc 

30 p: 2 sc, dec (4 sc, dec) * 5, 2 sc = 30 sc, ch 

In the next row we knit ears – check the symmetry! 

Begin to fill the head moderately tightly. Pay special attention to the muzzle and cheeks. Be careful not to tear the yarn where the muzzle is formed. Stuff as you knit. 31 p: 3 sc. Attach the left ear. Knit together the marked eyelet loop and head decrease. 3 sc over the ear and head together. Further on the head: dec, 3 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 2 sc. Attach right eyelet, knit 1 sc across eyelet and head together, starting at marked loop. Knit the next sc of the eyelet together with the decrease on the head. 2 sc over the ear and head together. We finish knitting a row on the head: 1 sc, dec = 24 

Remove add. lug markers. 

32 p: 2 sc. Knit the next sc with the remaining un-knit ear loops, 2 sc along the remaining un-knitted ear loops, knit the next un-knit ear and head loops together, decrease. We continue on the head: (2 sc, dec) * 2, 2 sc. Along the remaining not knitted ear loops: dec, 2 sc. Again on the head: dec = 18 sc 

At this stage, you can put off knitting and finish the head after decoration. This makes it easier to hide all the threads and adjust the uniformity of the packing. Or continue knitting, if that’s more convenient for you. 

33 p: (1 sc, dec) * 6 = 12 sc 

34 p: dec * 6 = 6 sc 

Cut the thread. Pull off the remaining hinges, fasten. 

Registration. 

Before shaping the muzzle, check again if the head is well enough in the cheeks and the back of the head. 

Pick up and try on the eyes of the hares. With a dark color, your usual means, tint the area under the eyes. Set the eyes next to the nose at a point just above the place where the dc was knitted. Guide the securing threads to the back of the head between sc. Tie together the ends of the threads from the adjacent eyes and hide in the head with Iris Yarn, embroider the line under the nose, eyebrows and whites of the eyes. 

To do this, insert a long needle into the open hole of the head (or at the back of the head, between sc, if the head has already been tied), withdraw at the point of the mouth. Insert under the nose and out into the open opening of the head. 

Fasten the threads, cut and hide in the head. 

Sew the eyebrows and whites of the eyes in the same way. 

Add filler and tie the head (if not tied before): 

33 p: (1 sc, dec) * 6 = 12 sc 

34 p: dec * 6 = 6 sc 

Cut the thread. Pull off the remaining loops, secure. 

Tint the cheeks, nose, mouth, inside of the ears 

Congratulations, your eared is ready! 

clothing 

Clothes for a rabbit are crocheted of the same yarn as the toy itself. 

In order not to be mistaken with the size, before starting work, determine your knitting density. Knit a small sample from the yarn and the knitting needles with which you are going to knit clothes. 

Count how many stitches and rows of 1 cm you get. I have a knitting density: 3 loops and 4 rows in 1 cm 

Sweater with carrots 

The sweater is knitted using the “Raglan top” method. 

To make the rabbit’s head go through the neck, we will calculate the loops. 

* Measure the circumference of the head at its widest point. My rabbit has cheeks. The girth is 16 cm 

* Measure the tied specimen stretched. Count how many loops are obtained in 1 cm.I have 2.25 loops in 1 cm 

Therefore, you need to dial: 16 cm * 2.25 = 36 loops 

For calculating raglan, it is more convenient if the number of loops dialed is a multiple of 3 (i.e. it will be divisible by 3 without a remainder). If you get a number that is not divisible by 3 without a remainder, round up to the nearest whole number. 

Loosely cast on 36 stitches on circular or hosiery needles with gray yarn. We knit in a circle. The beginning of knitting is the back. 

1-6 p (6 rows): 36 knit 

Check if the rabbit’s head fits into the resulting neck. 

7 p: (dec, yarn) * 18 = 36 

8 p: 36 knit 

Raglan calculation 

 We divide all the loops into 3 parts: two go to the front and back, the third to the raglan loops and 2 sleeves 36/3 = 12 loops. 

If you have an odd number of loops in one part, it is better to add an extra loop from the third part to the front loops. 

 12/2 = 6 loops – half back. 

Raglan lines are loops, on both sides of which yarns are knitted to expand the canvas. In this model, there is 1 loop for 1 raglan line. 

 We subtract raglan loops from 3 parts: 12 stitches – 4 = 8 stitches 

 Divide the remaining loops in half: 8/2 = 4 loops – falls on one sleeve. 

We continue to knit: 

9 p: 6 knit (half of the back), yarn, 1 knit (raglan line), yarn, 4 knit (right sleeve), yarn, 1 knit (raglan line), yarn, 12 knit, yarn, 1 knit (raglan line) , yarn, 4 knit (left sleeve), yarn, 1 knit (raglan line), yarn, 6 knit (half of the back) = 44 

10 p: 44 knit 

11 p: 7 knit, yarn, 1 knit, yarn, 6 knit, yarn, 1 knit, yarn, 14 knit, yarn, 1 knit, yarn, 6 knit, yarn, 1 knit, yarn, 7 knit = 52 

12 p: 52 knit 

13 p: 8 knit, yarn, 1 knit, yarn, 8 knit, yarn, 1 knit, yarn, 16 knit, yarn, 1 knit, yarn, 8 knit, yarn, 1 knit, yarn, 8 knit = 60 

14 p: 60 knit 

Try on the resulting detail on a rabbit. If the length is not enough, continue knitting, adding one loop on both sides of the raglan lines in every second row. 

Change the thread to a milky thread. 

15 p: 10 knit (including the raglan line), remove 10 loops of the sleeve per thread, dial 3 loops (armhole), 20 knit (including raglan lines), remove 10 loops of the sleeve per thread, dial 3 loops (armhole), 10 knit ( including raglan line) = 46 

From the 17th to the 23rd row we knit the “Carrot” pattern. Rapport (repeating part) of the pattern – 5 loops. 

Therefore, in order for the pattern to look beautiful and symmetrical, the number of loops in the canvas must be a multiple of 5. 

I got 46 loops. The closest multiple of 5 is 50. Therefore, in the next row I will add 4 loops (I will make 4 increases from the loop of the bottom row). If you have a different number of loops, adjust it yourself. 

Because hares have a plump tummy – here it is better to increase the number of loops, and not decrease. I do 3 raises on my stomach and one on my back. 

16 p: 14 knit, inc, 7, inc, 8, inc, 13, inc = 50 

17-23 r (7 rows): “Carrot” pattern 

24-25 p (2 rows): 50 knit 

Change thread to gray thread. 

26-28 p (3 rows): (1 knit, 1 purl) * 25 Close the loops freely 

Remove the loops of the right sleeve on the needles, cast on 2 loops in the armhole = 12 

1-6 p (6 rows): 12 knit 

Try it on – if the sleeve is not long enough, knit a few more rows. 

7-8 p: (1 knit, 1 purl) * 6 = 12 Close the loops freely. 

Tie the left sleeve in the same way. Hide all the ends of the threads. Insert a lace or ribbon into the holes of the neck. 

Beanie 

Measure the circumference of the rabbit’s head as the hat will be worn. It is convenient to do this by a segment 

yarn by marking the line to be measured with pins. The circumference of the head of my rabbit is 18 cm 

We calculate the loops: 

17 cm * 3 p (I have 1 cm) = 54 loops 

Pattern repeat 4 loops. Therefore, in order for the pattern to look beautiful and symmetrical, the number of loops to be dialed should be a multiple of 4: 

54 p / 4 p (rapport) = 13.5 – round to the nearest integer, we get 

14. 14 * 4 p = 56 loops need to be dialed. 

Cast on 56 stitches on circular or stocking needles with gray yarn. We knit in a circle. 

1-4 p: (1knit, 1 purl) * 28 = 56 

5 p: 56 knit 

Try it on your rabbit 

Change to a milky thread. 

6-7 p (2 rows): 56 knit 

8-11 r (4 rows): “Zigzag” pattern 

Try not to tighten the fabric when knitting an ornament. 

12-13 (2 rows): 56 knit 

14 p: (2 knit, dec) * 14 = 42 

15 p: 42 knit 

16 p: (1 knit, dec) * 14 = 28 

17 p: 28 knit 

18 p: dec * 14 = 14 

19 p: 14 knit 

Cut the thread, thread through the remaining loops, pull off. Fasten all ends of the threads 

With the help of a device or any method you are used to, make a pompom with a diameter of 5-6 cm from gray yarn. Sew on a hat 

Jacket with a hood 

The jacket is knitted in the “Raglan from above” method with a one-piece-knitted hood on circular needles in rotary rows. 

The beginning of knitting is the top of the hood. Let’s calculate the required number of loops and rows. 

Determine the depth of the hood – measure loosely the half-girth of the head at its widest point from cheek to cheek. For my hare it is 13.5 cm 

The knitting density is 3 stitches and 4 rows in 1 cm.Therefore, for the desired depth of the hood, you need to dial: 13.5 cm * 3 stitches = 40.5 loops. 

Because the hood is knitted without a seam, it is more convenient to dial an even number of loops. Round to the nearest even number – 40 stitches. 

Measure the height of the hood from crown to shoulder. I have 10 cm. Calculate the required number of rows: 

10 cm * 4 p = 40 p 

The edge of this jacket model is decorated with 3 edge loops. This method gives the product a neat look – the edge looks like a lace. 

Knits as follows. At the beginning of the row: 

 Remove the first loop like a regular edge loop. 

 We knit the 2nd st. 

 We remove the 3rd p., Without knitting, the thread before work. 

At the end of the row we knit like this: 

 1st st. Knit front 

 We remove the 2nd p., Without knitting, the thread before work 

 We knit the 3rd p. Like a regular hem. 

To keep the top of the hood without a seam, cast 40 loops on two knitting needles at once. For a set, use knitting needles one size larger than those with which you plan to knit. 

If this method does not suit you, dial the required number of loops in the usual way. And at the end of the work, sew the two halves of the hood. 

1-2 p (2 rows): 3 ch, 34 knit, 3 ch = 40 

In rows 3 and 4, we form holes for the ears. Try it on your bunny and mark the locations of the holes. 

3 p: 3 ch, 2 knit, bind off 5 loops, 20 knit, bind off 5 loops, 2 knit, 3ch 

4 p: 3 ch, 2 knit, cast on 5 loops, 20 knit, cast on 5 loops, 2 knit, 3ch 

5- 44 p (40-42 rows): 3 ch, 34 p knit, 3 ch = 40 

Try on the hood over the toy. If the height is not enough, knit a few more rows. 

The calculation of the loops for the neck and raglan is done in the same way as for the rabbit sweater 

To get the required number of loops for the neckline, make several decreases evenly in the next row. 

The neck of my toy needs 36 stitches. We get: 40 p – 36 p = 4 – the deductions need to be made. 

45 p: 3 ch, 1 knit, dec knit, (8 knit, dec knit) * 3, 1 knit, 3 ch = 36 

46 p: 3 ch p, 30 purl, 3 ch p = 36 

47 p: 3 ch p, (dec knit, yarn) * 15, 3 ch p = 36 – holes for strings turned out. 48 p: 3 ch p, 30 purl, 3 ch p = 36 

49 p: 3 ch p, 3 knit, yarn, 1 knit, yarn, 4 knit, yarn, 1 knit, yarn, 12 knit, yarn, 1 knit, yarn, 4knit, yarn, 1 knit, yarn, 3 knit, 3 ch n = 44 

50 p: 3 ch p, 38 purl, 3 ch p = 44 

51 p: 3 ch p, 4 knit, yarn, 1 knit, yarn, 6 knit, yarn, 1 knit, yarn, 14 knit, yarn, 1 knit, yarn, 6 knit, yarn, 1 knit, yarn, 4 knit, 3 ch n = 52 

52 p: 3 ch p, 46 purl, 3 ch p = 52 

53 p: 3 ch p, 5 knit, yarn, 1 knit, yarn, 8 knit, yarn, 1 knit, yarn, 16 knit, yarn, 1 knit, yarn, 8 knit, yarn, 1 knit, yarn, 5 knit, 3 ch n = 60 

54 p: 3 ch p, 54 purl, 3 ch p = 60 purl 

55 p: 3 ch p, 7 knit, remove 10 stitches of sleeves per thread, cast on 3 loops, 20 knit stitches, remove 10 stitches of sleeves per thread, cast on 3 loops, 7 knit, 3 ch p = 46 

Change the thread to light. Keep crochet stitches in gray. 

56 p: 3 ch p, 40 purl, 3 ch p = 46 

57 In order for the shelves of the jacket to converge on the voluminous tummy of the bunny in the next row, you need to add several loops. 

Tummy circumference 18 cm. 18 cm * 3 p = 54 p – you need to get. 6 of them are edging. In addition, from 58 to 62 we knit the “Rhombus” pattern. When calculating the loops, you need to take into account the pattern repeat. 

We subtract 6 edge loops from the number of loops calculated above – they do not participate in knitting the pattern. 54 p – 6 ch = 48 p 

Pattern rapport – 4 loops. Therefore, the number of loops in the canvas should be a multiple of 4. If the resulting number is not divisible by 4 without a remainder, round up to the nearest whole number. 

48 p / 4 (pattern repeat) = 12 times 

And one more loop needs to be added for symmetry, because knit in rotary rows: 48 + 1 = 49 p 

Add edge loops: 49 + 6 = 55 loops 

This means that in order for the size of the jacket to be a hare in time and the pattern is located symmetrically, in the next row you need to make evenly 9 increments: 55 p (should be) – 46 p (it turned out after 56 row) = 9 

57 p: 3 ch p, 4 knit, inc, 5 knit, inc, 4 knit, inc, (5 knit, inc) * 4, 4 knit, inc, 5 knit, inc, 4 knit, inc, 3 ch p = 51 

58-62 R: pattern “Rhombuses” with front satin stitch 

RUB 63: 51 knit 

64 p: 51 purl 

Change the thread to gray. 

65-67 R (3 rows): 51 knit 

Close the hinges loosely. Hide all ends of the threads. Sleeves 

We knit in a circle on circular or stocking needles. 

Remove the sleeves on the knitting needles, cast on 2 loops in the armhole = 12 

1-6 p (6 rows): 12 knit 

7 p: 12 purl 

8 p: 12 knit Close the loops. 

Tie the second sleeve in the same way. If necessary, sew the two halves of the hood. Pass a decorative lace or ribbon through the opening of the neckline. 

Make a tassel or pompom and attach to the corner of the hood. 

Thank you for creating these cute eared ears with me! 

I wish you success in your work! 

Bonus material 1. Carrot 

You don’t have to follow the marker. We start knitting with orange yarn. 

Stuff the part while knitting. 

1 p: 6 sc into magic ring 

2 p for the back wall of the loop: inc * 6 = 12 sc 

3-5 p (3 rows): 12 sc 

6 p: (2 sc, dec) * 3 = 9 sc 

7-9 p: (3 rows): 9 sc 

10 p: (1 sc, dec) * 3 = 6sc 

11-12 p (2 rows): 6 sc 

Make another dec, pull off the remaining loops, hide the thread (photo 1) 

We knit the “tail” of the carrot. For the half-loops left in the second row with green yarn: 

1 p: 6 sc 

2 p: sl-st, (4 ch, 3 sl-st back in the chain, sl-st) * 6 

Cut the thread, fasten (Photo 2) 

Using a brush with dry art bedding or light brown watercolor pencils, draw horizontal stripes on the carrot in random order 

(Photo 3, 4) 

Bonus material 2. Basket 

You don’t have to follow the marker. Dial 7 ch. Knit around chain ch, starting at the second stitch from the hook: 

1 p: 5 sc, 3 sc in the last loop, on the other side of the chain – 4 sc, inc = 14 sc 

2 p: inc, 4 sc, 3 inc, 4 sc, 2 inc = 20 sc 

3 p: sc, inc, 4 sc, (sc, inc) * 3, 4 sc, (sc, inc) * 2 = 26 sc 

4 p: 2sc, inc, 4 sc, (2 sc, inc) * 3, 4 sc, (2 sc, inc) * 2 = 32 sc (photo 5) 

The bottom of the basket is ready. Next, you need to make a transition from the bottom to the walls and tie the walls with the “Braid” pattern. The video below shows how to knit the 5th row, make a seamless connection and the Braid pattern. 

5 p: behind the back wall of the loop and the bow of the loop of the previous row: 32 sc (photo 6, 7) 

Make a seamless connection: 

• pull out the loop, set it aside. Insert the hook into the next sc from the wrong side of the part (photo 8), 

• pick up and pull the loop to the wrong side, pull it up (photo 9, 10), put the extended loop on the part counterclockwise (photo 11). Tighten 

Then knit with the “Braid” pattern: 

• insert the hook into the next sc, pull out the loop – there are 2 loops on the hook (photo 13) 

• insert the hook into the base sc in the previous row, pull out the loop – there are 3 loops on the hook (photo 14, 15) 

• knit all the loops on the hook at one time (photo 16) 

Repeat to the end of the row (photo 17) 

Knit 3 more rows (or more, if you want the basket deeper) with the Braid pattern. Finish each row with a seamless connection. In order not to get confused – carefully count the loops, there should be 32 of them in each row. 

Mark with markers two loops at the points of attachment of the basket handle (photo 18, 19) 

Tie the edge of the basket with “Rach step” up to the first marker (photo 20). 

We knit a handle. 

• knit 2 sl-st at the back of the loop, 

• 20 ch; 

• throw the chain from ch like a bridge to the opposite side, 

• 2 sl-st for the inner half loop (inside the basket) on the opposite side (photo 21), 

• 20 sl-st along a chain from ch – back to the beginning of knitting the handle (photo 22), 

• continue to knit with crustacean steps along the edge of the basket. At the points of attachment of the handle, we knit in half-loops that remain outside the basket (photo 23) 

The basket is ready. You can fold your knitted crop into it and enjoy the result (photo 24) 

Abbrevations: 

ch – chain 

sc – single crochet 

sl-st – slip stitch 

inc – increase (2 columns in one loop of the previous row) 

dec – decrease (2 columns with one vertex)

Rope and crochet knowledge; 

White rope; catania 

Gray and pink; viburnum organica 

Needle; 2.mm 

HEAD 

1) Into magic ring 6sc 

2) 6inc (12sc) 

3) (sc, inc) × 6 (18sc) 

4) (2sc, inc) × 6 (24sc) 

5) (3sc, inc) × 6 (30sc) 

6) (4sc, inc) × 6 (36sc) 

7) (5sc, inc) × 6 (42sc) 

8) (6sc, inc) × 6 (48sc) 

9/13) (48sc) 

14) 11sc, (2sc, inc) × 3, 6sc, (2sc, inc) × 3, 13sc (54sc) 

15) 11sc, (3sc, inc) × 3, 6sc, (3sc, inc) × 3, 13sc (60sc) 

16) 11sc, (4sc, inc) × 3, 6sc, (4sc, inc) × 3, 13sc (66sc) 

17) 11sc, (5sc, inc) × 3, 6sc, (5sc, inc) × 3, 13sc (72sc) 

18/22) (72sc) 

23) 11sc, (5sc, dec) × 3, 6sc, (5sc, dec) × 3, 13sc (66sc) 

24) 11sc, (4sc, dec) × 3, 6sc, (4sc, dec) × 3, 13sc (60sc) 

25) 11sc, (3sc, dec) × 3, 6sc, (3sc, dec) × 3, 13sc (54sc) 

26) 11sc, (2sc, dec) × 3, 6sc, (2sc, dec) × 3, 13sc (48sc) 

27) (6sc, dec) × 6 (42sc) 

28) (5sc, dec) × 6 (36sc) 

29) (4sc, dec) × 6 (30sc) 

30) (3sc, dec) × 6 (24sc) 

31) (2sc, dec) × 6 (18sc) 

32) (4sc, dec) × 3 (15sc) 

* The eyes (6 mm) are inserted between the 12th and 13th rows, leaving 3sc between them. 

* The locked nose is attached between the 16th and 17th rows. 

* The mouth pit is made between the 25th and 26th rows, the mouth pit construction is available in the highlights section! 

EAR 

1) Into magic ring 4sc 

2) (sc, inc) × 2 (6sc) 

3) (2sc, inc) × 2 (8sc) 

4) (3sc, inc) × 2 (10sc) 

5) (4sc, inc) × 2 (12sc) 

6) (5sc, inc) × 2 (14sc) 

7) (6sc, inc) × 2 (16sc) 

8) (7sc, inc) × 2 (18sc) 

9/22) (18sc) 

23) (7sc, dec) × 2 (16sc) 

24) (16sc) 

25) (6sc, dec) × 2 (14sc) 

26) (14sc) 

27) (5sc, dec) × 2 (12sc) 

28) (12sc) 

29) (4sc, dec) × 2 (10sc) 

30) (10sc) 

31) (3sc, dec) × 2 (8sc) 

32/33) (8sc) 

Done, join the two edges with sc, cut the thread long to sew. 

* ears are sewn between 5th and 6th rows on the head. 

ARM 

1) Into magic ring (4sc) 

2) 4inc (8sc) 

3/31) (8sc) 

* join the two sides with sc, cut the thread long to sew. 

* arms 69.-70. sewn between rows. 

LEG 

* We start with gray rope and loop scroll at the end of each row! 

1) Into magic ring (6sc) 

2) 6inc (12sc) 

3/15) (12sc) 

16) We do 12sc with gray rope from Flo, sl-st to the last loop and cut the gray rope a little longer, we make the white rope from blo (10sc, dec) = 11 ×. (We pull the gray rope we cut with the end of the Beyap rope to the inner part of the leg, tie it together and fix it.) 

17/36) (11sc) 

* we change color and go to gray rope! (We will create the shorts part) 

37/40) (11sc) 

* We knit one of the same, pull 3 chains and connect the two legs with a loop shift, we will continue to the torso after here! 

BODY 

41) 12sc (there was 11sc in the leg, 1 sc in the loop we sl-st we do) 3sc (one side of the chain in between) 12sc (the other leg) 3sc (the other side of the chain) sl-st at the end of the row = (30sc) 

42) (4sc, inc) × 6 (36sc) 

43/48) (36sc) 

* we change color and switch to white! (The shorts are partially finished) 

49/54) (36sc) 

55) Side decrease by 1 (34sc) 

56/57) (34sc) 

58) Side 1 decrease (32sc) 

59) (32sc) 

60) Side decrease by 1 (30sc) 

61/62) (30sc) 

63) (3sc, dec) × 6 (24sc) 

64/65) (24sc) 

66) (2sc, dec) × 6 (18sc) 

67/69) (18sc) 

70) (4sc, dec) × 3 (15sc) 

71/72) (15sc) 

* finished, we cut the rope long to connect the head and the body! 

gray / pink dress collar; 

Pull 1-11 chains 

2- We skip the first chain, we make 5 hdc from the second chain, we make one needle for each of the remaining 4 chains, sl-st to the last chain and pull a chain and turn back. * from here we will always knit from the back part of the loop (from blo) in all rows! 

3-1 sl-st, 4 sc, 5 hdc, 1 chain pull back 

4-5 hdc, 4 sc, 1 sl-st, 1 chain pull back. In this way, we measure the collar part of our rabbit and knit our collar section of sufficient length, 

NOTE; The chain number I started with in the red dress is 13! You can change the number of chains according to your rope and hand! 

1) We knit the collar of sufficient length by measuring it on our rabbit. The number of rows does not matter here, the number of rows may vary depending on the thickness of your rope and your hand. It is important that your rope remains at the top of the collar only when you knit the last row. 

2) We sl-st from blo to the first loop. 

3) We pull 8 chains for the buttonhole. 

4) We make sl-st in the same loop and fix it. 

5) We descend from the blo part by sl-st until 4 loops remain at the bottom. 

6) We pull 3 chains 

7) We turn to the inside of the dress! 

8) We do a sc in the loop in the photo, pull 2 chains and make sc in the loop with the locator attached 

9) We draw 6 chains to the arm space and continue at the level we determined with the locator. 

10) at the end we pull 3 more chains 

11) We connect the section that we created at the bottom of the collar with the loop shift. 

12) We make 1 er hdc for all the chains and sclere we do. 

13) We are making hdc without increasing 2 rows, the number of loops here will differ according to the width of the collar, 

skirt part. 

1) In the section we created with chains for the skirt part, 38 hdc is formed when we make an hdc inside each chain. (The numbers I give here are the numbers for the gray / pink dress, the red dress is used for the description, the numbers are different!)  

2) 38 hdc 

3 (5dc, inc) × 6, 2dc = 44dc 

4) 43 dc 

5 (6dc, inc) × 6, 2dc = 50dc 

6/7) 50dc 

8) (7dc, inc) × 6, 2dc = 56dc 

9/10) 56dc 

11) 56hdc 

ready …. 

This description is intended for general use.

When publishing a toy, please indicate the author

Pattern Designer@anastasiya_vokhmina

It’s not difficult for you, but I’m pleased))

Necessary materials:

1. YarnArt Jeans yarn in pink and dairy colors. Can

use absolutely any other yarn.

2. Nako Paris yarn for a hat.

3. Hook number 2.

4. Knitting needles number 4.

5. Filler for toys.

6. Black beads, diameter 8-10 mm.

7. Yarn “Iris” or floss black and pink for

face design.

Cute Bunny Amigurumi Free Crochet Pattern

abbreviations

SC single crochet;

inc-increase;

dec decrease

sl-st -slip-stitch

Knit in a milky color.

We stuff the part along the way knitting.

1.6 sc into magic ring;

2.6 inc (12);

3. (1 sc, 1 inc) x6 (18);

4. (2 sc, 1 inc) x6 (24);

5. (3 sc, 1 inc) x6 (30);

6. (4 sc, 1 inc) x6 (36);

7. (5 sc, 1 inc) x6 (42);

8. (6 sc, 1 inc) x6 (48);

9. (7 sc, 1 inc) x6 (54);

10. (8sc, 1 inc) x6 (60);

11-22. 60 sc;

23. (8 sc, 1 dec) x6 (54);

24. (7 sc, 1 dec) x6 (48);

25. (6 sc, 1 dec) x6 (42);

26. (5 sc, 1 dec) x6 (36);

27. (4 sc, 1 dec) x6 (30);

28.30 sc;

29. (4 sc, 1 inc) x6 (36);

30. (5 sc, 1 inc) x6 (42);

Change the thread to pink.

31-32. 42 sc;

Change the thread to dairy.

33-34. 42 sc;

Change the thread to pink.

35-36. 42 sc;

Change the thread to dairy.

37-38. 42 sc.

Change the thread to pink.

39-40. 42 sc;

Change the thread to dairy.

41-43. 42 sc;

44. (5 sc, 1 dec) x6 (36);

45. (4 sc, 1 dec) x6 (30);

46. ​​(3 sc, 1 dec) x6 (24);

47. (2 sc, 1 dec) x6 (18);

48. (1 sc, 1 dec) x6 (12);

49.6 dec (6)

Tighten the hole. A thread

hide.

HEAD AND BODY

Knit in pink. We fill in the course of knitting.

We collect a chain of 5 ch

From the second loop from the hook we knit:

1. 1 inc, 2 sc, 2 inc in 1 loop, 2 sc, 1 inc (12);

2. 1 inc, 4 sc, 2 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc (16);

3.1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc, 1

sc (22);

4. 2 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 2 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc (28);

5.28 sc behind the back wall of the loop.

6-8. 28 sc;

9. We knit 3 sc so that the beginning of the next row is

right above the heel, continue knitting:

 8 sc, 1 dec, (1 sc, 1 dec) x3, 9 sc (24);

10.8 sc, 4 dec, 8 sc (20);

11.8 sc, 2 dec, 8 sc (18);

Change the thread to dairy.

12. 18 sc behind the back wall of the loop;

13-25. 18 sc;

26. (1 sc, 1 dec) x6 (12);

27.12 sc;

28.6 dec (6)

Cut the thread. Pull off the hole. Fasten and hide the thread.

HANDS

Knit in a milky color. We stuff the part in the course of knitting.

1.6 sc into magic ring;

2.6 inc (12);

3.12 sc;

4. (3 sc, 1 inc) x3 (15);

5-20. 15 sc;

21. (3 sc, 1 dec) x3 (12);

22.6 dec (6)

Cut the thread. Pull off the hole.

HORNS FOR LAMPS

1.6 sc into magic ring;

2.6 inc (12);

3.12 sc;

4. (3 sc, 1 inc) x3 (15);

5.15 sc;

6. (4 sc, 1 inc) x3 (18), sl-st

Fasten, cut and hide the thread.

 Ears

Knit in a milky color.

1.6 sc into magic ring;

2.6 inc (12);

3. (1 sc, 1 inc) x6 (18);

4. (2 sc, 1 inc) x6 (24);

5. (3 sc, 1 inc) x6 (30);

6.30 sc;

7. (4 sc, 1 inc) x6 (36);

8.36 sc;

9. (5 sc, 1 inc) x6 (42);

10-12. 42 sc;

13. (5 sc, 1 dec) x6 (36);

14-15. 36 sc;

16. (4 sc, 1 dec) x6 (30);

Change the thread to pink.

17-18. 30 sc;

Change the thread to dairy.

19. (3 sc, 1 dec) x6 (24);

Change the thread to pink.

20-21. 24 sc;

Change the thread to dairy.

22.24 sc;

Fold the part and stitch the edges.

TAIL FOR A HARE

1.6 sc into magic ring;

2.6 inc (12);

3. (1 sc, 1 inc) x6 (18);

4.18 sc

5. (4 sc, 1 dec) x3 (15), sl-st

SCARF AND HAT

Knitting needles number 4.

For a scarf-6 loops.

Pattern-facial surface.

For caps-54 loops.

6 rows of rubber 2×2,

Further front surface.

Similar Visuals

Materials and tools for work: 

1. Yarn for knitting the rabbit itself, containing wool or mohair (I have Color Citi Angora rabbit 60% acrylic, 40% rabbit 100g / 500m, color light gray) 

2. Yarn for knitting clothes for Zakhar – thinner than the main yarn (I have “Alize Classic Lanagold 800” 49% wool, 51% acrylic 100g / 800m azure and pink powdery) 

3. Hook corresponding to the thickness of the yarn chosen for knitting (I have a Clover 1.25 mm) 

4. Filler for stuffing (sintepon, synthetic fluff or holofiber) (I have holofiber) 

5. Wire for the frame: copper, cross-section 2.5 mm2 (ie, diameter about 1.78 mm) 

(if the yarn is thicker, then the frame can be made thicker) 

6. Adhesive plaster on a fabric base (for fixing the frame). 

7. Black half-beads (or ready-made eyes) (I have plastic black eyes 7mm in diameter) – 2 pcs. 

8. Small buttons for a shirt. 

9. Strong threads for tightening 

10. Long needle for tightening. 

11. Tailor’s pins with colored heads for marking bindings. 

12. Glue super-Moment gel, scissors, nippers. small pliers, eyeshadow or paint and a tinting brush, tweezers, and stuffing sticks. 

The height of the finished toy from the materials specified in the MK is about 19 cm to the crown / 23 cm to the tips of the ears. 

Abbreviations used: 

sc. – single crochet 

dc. – double crochet 

sl-st – slip stitch 

inc – increase (knit 2sc from 1sc) 

dec – decrease (from 2sc. knit 1sc.) 

ch – chain

3sc. From 1 – knit 3 sc. from 1sc. (double increase) 

1sc. From 3 – knit 3sc. Together (double decrease) 

Additional marker – an additional marker used to mark special places, for example, places where parts are inserted. 

Upper legs (arms, 2 pieces. Knit the same) 

row1: 6sc. into magic ring 

row2: (inc) * 6 times = (12) 

row3: 12sc. 

row 4: 12sc. 

row5: 12sc. 

row 6: 12sc. 

row7: 12sc. 

row8: 12sc. 

row 9: 12sc. 

row 10: 12sc. 

row 11: 12sc. 

row12: 12sc. 

row13: 12sc. 

row 14: 3sc., 6sc. behind the back p / p, 3sc. = (12) 

row 15: 3sc., 6sc. for the front p / p, which remained in the 14th row, 2sc., inc = (13) 

row 16: 3sc., 6sc. behind the back p / p, 4sc. = (13) 

row 17: inc, 2sc., 6sc. for the front p / p, which remained in the 16th row, 3sc. = (14) 

row 18: 14sc. 

Let’s make a frame for the pens: take two pieces of wire, the length of each is equal to the length of the arm plus the length of the shoulder, plus the height of the neck and head, plus a little on a ring for the palm. 

Roll up a palm ring on one side of each segment and wrap it with a plaster. 

We insert the frame into the handles so that the flat loop-palm runs with an edge in relation to the bend of the arm, which was formed by alternating when knitting front and back stitches in 14-17 rows. 

Fill the foot with filler. We fill the brush of the paws only from the back side, leave the palm flat. 

On the second leg, we make the flat side of the palm in a mirror image relative to the first leg. 

row 19: 14sc. 

row 20: 14sc. 

row21: 14sc. 

row 22: 14sc. 

row 23: 14sc. 

row 24: 14sc. 

row 25: 14sc. 

row 26: 14sc. 

row 27: 14sc. 

row 28: 14sc. 

row 29: 14sc. 

row 30: 14sc. 

Let’s knit a few more sc. to the middle of the back of the hand (I got 2sc. extra) 

In the direction of the palms and folds of the handles, we determine the right and left hand. 

Let’s mark with additional markers on the right hand: 2nd and 6th sc. in the direction of knitting, starting with the first untied; 

on the left hand: 2nd and 6th sc. against the direction of knitting, starting with the last knit. 

You should get 5sc. between the marked, including marked, from the side of the palms are the places where the handles are tied into the body. 

Lower legs (legs, 2 pieces. Knit the same) 

row1: 5ch 

row 2: From the second loop around the chain: 3sc., 3sc. from 1, 2sc., inc = (10) 

row3: inc, 2sc., (inc) * 3 times, 2sc., (inc) * 2 times = (16) 

row4: 1sc., inc, 2sc., (1sc., inc) * 3 times, 2sc., (1sc., inc) * 2 times = (22) 

row5: (10sc., inc) * 2 times = (24) 

row 6: 24sc. 

row7: 24sc. 

row8: 24sc. 

row 9: 24sc. 

Fold the part along the initial chain of the first row and check the location of the marker – the marker for the beginning of the row should be in the center of the side of the foot. 

1sc. offsets (slightly shifted from the center towards the sole) 

In 10-11 rows, the decrease goes along the top of the foot. 

row10: 10sc., (dec, 2sc.) * 3 times, dec = (20) 

row11: 12sc., (dec, 2sc.) * 2 times = (18) 

row 12: 18sc. 

row 13: 18sc. 

row 14: 18sc. 

2sc. Offsets to the middle of the side part Next, we knit the heel. We knit the heel in rotary rows. New marker in the center of the heel 

row 15: 5sc., new marker (now it is the main one), 3sc., 1ch, turn 

row 16: 3sc., marker, 3sc., 1ch, turn 

row 17: 3sc., marker, 3sc., 1ch, turn 

row 18: 3sc., marker, 3sc., 1ch, turn 

row 19: 3sc., marker, 3sc., 1ch, turn 

row 20: 3sc., marker, 3sc., 1ch, turn 

row 21: 3sc., marker, 3sc. – along the top of the heel 5sc. – on the side of the heel down 2sc., 8sc. behind the back p / p, 2sc. – on the foot 5sc. – on the side of the heel up 3sc. – along the top of the heel to the marker 

row 22: 7sc., dec, 1sc., 8sc. for the front p / p, which remained in 21 rows, 1sc., dec, 7sc. = (26) 

row 23: 6sc., dec, 1sc., 8sc. behind the back p / p, 1sc., dec, 6sc. = (24) 

row 24: 5sc., dec., 1sc., 8sc. for the front p / p, which remained in the 23rd row, 1sc., dec, 5sc. = (22) 

We make the frame of the legs. Take two pieces of wire, each length = (foot length x2) + leg length + distance from leg to spine + torso height + neck height + head height + a little more  

We roll each segment on one side into a loop, equal to the length of the foot, wrap the foot with a plaster and bend the frame in the shape of a leg. 

Insert the frame into the leg, fill the leg (flat sole). 

row 25: dec, 5sc., 8sc. behind the back p / p, 5sc., dec = (20) 

row 26: dec, 4sc., 8sc. for the front p / p, which remained in the 25th row, 4sc., dec = (18) 

row 27: 18sc. 

row 28: 18sc. 

row 29: 18sc. 

row 30: 18sc. 

row31: (5sc., inc) * 3 times = (21) 

row 32: 21sc. 

row33: 3sc., inc, (6sc., inc) * 2 times, 3sc. = (24) 

row 34: 24sc. 

row35: (7sc., inc) * 3 times = (27) 

row36: 4sc., inc, (8sc., inc) * 2 times, 4sc. = (30) 

2sc. Offsets to the center of the back of the leg. 

Cut the thread on one leg, fix it (left leg). 

We leave the thread on the second leg in work (right leg). 

You can bend your feet slightly inward. 

Mark the 7th sc with an additional marker on the left leg. against the direction of knitting, starting with the last knit. 

The torso. 

We take a leg with a working thread (right) and continue knitting. 

row 1: 7sc.- on the right leg, 2ch, 

(7sc., Inc, 7sc.) * 2 times – on the left leg, starting from the column with an additional marker, 2sc. – along the chain, 7sc., Inc, 14sc., Inc – along the right leg. 

Let’s knit 7sc. on the right leg and 1sc. along the chain to the center of the back and place a new marker. 

Hereinafter, the marker of the beginning of the row should pass along the center of the back, neck, nape. 

If this is not the case, then we knit the required number of offset columns, each time returning the marker of the beginning of the row to its place. 

row2: 68sc. 

row3: 68sc. 

row4: 68sc. 

row5: 68sc. 

row6: 68sc. 

1sc. offsets to the center of the back. 

row7: 68sc. 

Connect the leg frame into one main frame using a plaster. 

row8: 68sc. 

row 9: 68sc. 

row 10: 68sc. 

row11: 68sc. 

row12: 68sc. 

row13: 68sc. 

row14: 68sc. 

1sc. Offsets to the center of the back. 

row 15: 68sc. 

row 16: 68sc. 

row 17: 68sc. 

row 18: 68sc. 

Stuff legs and ass. 

row19: (16sc., dec, 16sc.) * 2 times = (66) 

row 20: 6sc., dec, 50sc., dec, 6sc. = (64) 

row21: (15sc., dec, 15sc.) * 2 times = (62) 

row22: 5sc., dec, 48sc., dec, 5sc. = (60) 

row23: (14sc., dec, 14sc.) * 2 times = (58) 

row 24: 5sc., dec, 44sc., dec, 5sc. = (56) 

Fill the carcass with filler. 

row25: (13sc., dec, 13sc.) * 2 times = (54) 

1sc. Offsets to the center of the back. 

row26: 5sc., dec, 40sc., dec, 5sc. = (52) 

row 27: (12sc., dec, 12sc.) * 2 times = (50) 

row 28: 18sc., dec, 10sc., dec, 18sc. = (48) 

row29: (11sc., dec, 11sc.) * 2 times = (46) 

row 30: 16sc., dec, 10sc., dec, 16sc. = (44) 

1sc. Offsets to the center of the back. 

row31: (10sc., dec, 10sc.) * 2 times = (42) 

row 32: 14sc., dec, 10sc., dec, 14sc. = (40) 

row 33: 40sc. 

Fill the carcass with filler 

Let’s mark on the body the 8th, 12th (between them together with the marked 5sc.), 29th, 33rd (between them together with the marked 5sc.) Columns. 

The marked five of the columns should be clearly on the sides – these are the places where the hands are tied. 

If they turned out not on the sides, then adjust the position of the beginning of the row as described (to the center of the back) 

row 34: 7sc. – per carcass, 5sc. – carcass + left arm together, 1sc, dec, 10sc., dec, 1sc. – per carcass 5sc. – carcass + right hand together, 7sc. – per carcass = (38) 

 row 35: 7sc. – per carcass 9sc. – on untied loops of the left hand 14sc. – per carcass 9sc. – on the untied loops of the right hand 7sc. – per carcass = (46) 

Attach the arm frame to the main frame. 

row 36: 6sc., dec, 30sc .. dec, 6sc. = (44) 

row 37: 14sc., dec, 12sc., dec, 14sc. = (42) 

row 38: 5sc., dec, 28sc., dec, 5sc. = (40) 

1sc. Offsets to center back 

row39: 13sc., dec, 10sc., dec, 13sc. = (38) 

Fill the carcass with filler 

row 40: 4sc., dec, 26sc., dec, 4sc. = (36) 

row41: 12sc., dec, 8sc., dec, 12sc. = (34) 

row 42: 7sc., dec, 16sc., dec, 7sc. = (32) 

row43: 7sc., dec, 14sc., dec, 7sc. = (30) 

row44: 6sc., dec, 14sc., dec, 6sc. = (28) 

row 45: 6sc., dec, 12sc., dec, 6sc. = (26) 

row 46: 26sc. 

row 47: 26sc. 

Fill the carcass with filler 

row48: inc, 5sc., inc, 6sc., inc, 6sc., inc, 5sc. = (30) 

1sc. Offset to the center of the back of the neck. Correct positioning of the beginning of the row is very important. Otherwise, the position of the nose will be misaligned. 

row49: 2sc., inc, (4sc., inc) * 5 times, 2sc. = (36) 

row50: 9sc., inc, 5sc., inc, 4sc., inc, 5sc., inc, 9sc. = (40) 

row51: 2sc., inc, 6sc., inc, 7sc., inc, 4sc., inc, 7sc., inc, 6sc., inc, 2sc. = (46) 

1sc. Displacement to the center of the occiput 

row52: 11sc., inc, 8sc., inc, 4sc., inc, 8sc., inc, 11sc. = (50) 

row53: (2sc., inc, 9sc., inc, 9sc., inc, 2sc.) * 2 times = (56) 

row54: 13sc., inc, 11sc., inc, 4sc., inc, 11sc., inc, 13sc. = (60) 

1sc. Displacement to the center of the occiput 

series 55: 14sc., inc, 12sc., inc, 4sc., inc, 12sc., inc, 14sc. = (64) 

row 56: 64sc. 

row 57: 64sc. 

row58: 64sc. 

row 59: 64sc. 

row60: 64sc. 

1sc. Displacement to the center of the occiput 

row61: 64sc. 

row 62: 15sc., dec, 11sc., dec, 4sc., dec, 11sc., dec, 15sc. = (60) 

row 63: (2sc., dec, 10sc., dec, 10sc., dec, 2sc.) * 2 times = (54) 

row 64: 12sc., dec, 9sc., dec, 4sc., dec, 9sc., dec, 12sc. = (50) 

row65: 2sc., dec, 7sc., dec, 8sc., dec, 4sc., dec, 8sc., dec, 7sc., dec, 2sc. = (44) 

Fill shoulders, neck and head with filler. 

row66: (10sc., dec, 10sc.) * 2 times = (42) 

row67: (2sc., dec, 13sc., dec, 2sc.) * 2 times = (38) 

row68: 8sc., dec, 18sc., dec, 8sc. = (36) 

1sc. Displacement to the center of the occiput 

row69: (2sc., dec, 10sc., dec, 2sc.) * 2 times = (32) 

row70: 7sc., dec, 14sc., dec, 7sc. = (30) 

Stuff your head with filler. 

row71: (3sc., dec) * 6 times = (24) 

row72: 1sc., dec, (2sc., dec) * 5 times, 1sc. = (18) 

row73: (1sc., dec) * 6 times = (12) 

row74: (dec) * 6 times = (6) 

Add filler to your head. Cut the thread, pull the remaining loops, hide the thread inside the toy. 

Ears. (2pcs knit the same) 

row1: 6sc. into magic ring 

row2: (1sc., inc) * 3 times = (9) 

row3: (2sc., inc) * 3 times = (12) 

row4: (3sc., inc) * 3 times = (15) 

row5: (4sc., inc) * 3 times = (18) 

row6: (5sc., inc) * 3 times = (21) 

row 7: 21sc. 

row8: 21sc. 

row 9: 21sc. 

row 10: 21sc. 

row11: dec, 19sc. = (20) 

row12: 20sc. 

row13: 20sc. 

row14: dec, 18sc. = (19) 

row 15: 19sc. 

row 16: 19sc. 

row17: dec, 17sc. = (18) 

row 18: 18sc. 

row 19: 18sc. 

row 20: 14sc., 1sl-st (stopped knitting on the side of the ear, the marker should be in the center of the front side of the ear) 

Do not fill the ears with filler! 

Cut the thread, leaving a long tail for sewing, fasten. 

Tail. 

row1: 6sc. into magic ring 

row2: (inc) * 6 times = (12) 

row3: (1sc., inc) * 6 times = (18) 

row 4: 18sc. 

row 5: 18sc. 

row6: (1sc., dec) * 6 times = (12) 

1sl-st, cut the thread, leaving a long tail for sewing, fasten. 

Assembly and design. 

We outline the places for the eyes and pin the ears, trying to find the optimal position for them, corresponding to our mood  

We will make a stitch from eye to eye and vice versa – we will tighten the bridge of the nose. 

We will tint the eye sockets and glue the eyes. 

We will embroider a nose in the shape of the letter Y (in my photo on the right, the nose is embroidered, but the threads are not yet thoroughly hidden – and rightly so, because a little later I decided that it should be made smaller and remade) 

Therefore, at the stage of fitting and trying on, do not rush to immediately overhaul and hide the tails of the threads, you may want to correct something in the process of forming the muzzle. 

Embroider the whites of the eyes by placing a stitch of white thread under the eye. The position of this stitch determines the direction and expression of the gaze, so take your time to secure the ponytails, try different positions of this white stitch. 

Sew on the ears and tail. Place a small piece of filler underneath when sewing on the tail. 

Here in the photo on the right is a redesigned nose. 

Maybe the difference is not big, but it seemed to me more organic for this mordaha. 

The rabbit itself is ready! 

Then you can comb it or leave it smooth  

Dress him up to your liking or hand him trendy and interesting accessories. 

I suggest you knit a hat and a blouse-shirt for him. 

A hat for Zakhar. 

We end each row with ss – connecting the beginning and end of the row and start a new row with 1ch. 

Azure color 

row1: 64ch join in a ring (must be equal to the head circumference) 

row2: 64sc. 

row3: (1dc. embossed front, 1dc. embossed purl) * 32 times = (64) 

row4: 64sc. 

row5: 64sc. embossed purl 

Pink color 

row 6: (lush column, 1ch) * 32 times (each repeat we knit through 1sc.) 

Azure color 

row7: 64sc. 

row8: Knit sc. purl embossed: 18sc., 10ch, 10sc. skip, 8sc., 10ch, 10sc. skipping, 18sc. (tied the holes for the ears.) 

Pink color 

row 9: (lush column, 1ch) * 32 times (each rep we knit through 1sc.) 

Azure color 

row 10: 64sc. 

row11: 64sc. embossed purl 

Pink color 

row12: (lush column, 1ch) * 32 times (each repetition we knit through 1sc.) 

Azure color 

row13: 64sc. 

row14: 64sc. embossed purl 

Pink color 

row 15: (lush column, 1ch) * 32 times (each repetition we knit through 1sc.) 

Azure color 

row 16: 64sc. 

row 17: 64sc. embossed purl 

row18: (1dc. embossed purl, 1dc. embossed front) * 32 times = (64) 

row 19: (1dc. embossed purl, decrease dc. embossed 

front) * 16 times = (32) (we make a decrease by crocheting two adjacent front ones, leaving behind the purl not knitted, standing between them. It turns out that with such a decrease we make 1 from 3) 

row20: (1dc. embossed purl, decrease dc. embossed front) * 8 times = (16) 

(we make a decrease by crocheting two adjacent front ones, leaving behind the purl not knitted, standing between them. It turns out that with such a decrease we make 1 from 3) 

row21: (1dc. embossed purl, decrease dc. embossed front) * 4 times = (8) 

(we make a decrease by crocheting two adjacent front ones, leaving behind the purl not knitted, standing between them. It turns out that with such a decrease we make 1 from 3) 

 Pull off the remaining loops. Hide the tail inside. 

Make a pom-pom and sew to the hat. 

Blouse shirt. 

Azure color. 

We knit in rotary rows, at the end of each row we do 2ch and a turn. 

row1: 40ch 

row2: 7dc, 3dc from1, 4dc. 3dc.from1, 14dc., 3dc.from1, 4dc., 3dc.from1, 7dc. = (48) 

row3: 8dc, 3dc from1, 6dc., 3dc.from1, 16dc., 3dc.from1, 6dc., 3dc.from1, 8dc. = (56) 

row4: 9dc, 3dc from1, 8dc., 3dc.from1, 18dc., 3dc.from1, 8dc., 3dc.from1, 9dc. = (64) 

row5: 10dc, 3dc from1, 10dc., 3dc.from1, 20dc., 3dc.from1, 10dc., 3dc.from1, 10dc. = (72) 

row6: 11dc, 3dc of1, 12dc, 3dc.from1, 22dc., 3dc.from1, 12dc., 3dc.from1, 11dc. = (72) 

row 7: Separate the sleeves: 13dc., skip 15dc, 24dc., skip 15dc., 13dc. = (50) 

row8: (8dc., inc, 7dc, inc, 8dc.) * 2 times = (54) 

row 9: 8dc., 3dc. from 1, 4dc., inc, 4dc., 3dc. from 1, 16dc., 3dc. from 1, 4dc., inc, 4dc., 3dc. from 1, 8dc. = (64) 

row 10: 9dc., 3dc. from 1, 6dc., inc, 6dc., 3dc. from 1, 16dc., 3dc. from 1, 6dc., inc, 6dc., 3dc. from 1, 9dc. = (74) 

row11: 9dc., inc, 18dc., inc, 16dc., inc, 18dc., inc, 9dc. = (78) 

row12: 78dc. 

We stopped at the bottom of the right shelf, turn to the shelf: 

row1: 24sc. up the ledge, 1ch, turn 

row2: 24sc. down the shelf, 1ch, turn 

row 3: 12sc., (3ch, skip 1sc., 2sc.) * 3 times, 3sc. (knitted loops) 

Turn to neck: 

2sc. by strapping, 40sc. along the neck, turn to the left shelf: 

row1: 24sc. down the shelf, 1ch, turn 

row2: 24sc. up the ledge, 1ch, turn 

row 3: 24sc. down the shelf, 1ch, turn 

row 4: 24sc. up the ledge, 1ch, turn 

In the last one we will knit another 2sc., Turn to the neck: 

3sc. on the strapping of the shelf and start knitting the collar: 

row 1: 40sc., 1ch, turn 

row 2: 40sc., 1ch, turn 

row3: inc, 38sc., inc, 1ch, turn 

row 4: 42sc., 1ch, turn 

row5: inc, 40sc., inc, 1ch, turn 

row6: 44sc. 

Fasten the thread, carefully hide it in the posts. 

Sew on buttons. 

We dress our rabbit, kiss on the nose and take pictures 

Similar Visuals

ABBREVIATIONS:

•Mr: Magic ring,

• sc: single crochet,

•İnc: increase,

•DEC  decrease,

• x: repeat.

•BLO: Back Loop only,

•FLO: Front Loop only,

•DC: Double crochet.

The size of the finished toy with my materials is 27-28 cm (with ears)

Toy size depends

from the thickness of the yarn,

hook thickness and

knitting density!

Materials:

• yarnart yarn “jeans” (cotton / acrylic) 50g / 160m

– white (a little more than the 1st hank),

– a little blue and light brown.

• yarnart yarnart “etamin” (acrylic) 30g / 180m blue

• yarnart yarn “violet” (cotton) 50g / 282m No. 3194

• cotton light pink yarn for embroidery of a nose (I used yarnart “begonia” yarn)

• hook number 1,6

• holofiber (or other filler)

• wire (approximately 1.5 meters)

• black beads for eyes 6-8 mm

• dry oil pastel or pink pencil for tinting cheeks

Head

1 row: 6 sc in amigurumi ring (6)

2 row: 6 inc (12)

3 row: (1 sc, 1 inc) x6 times (18)

4 row: (2 sc, 1 inc) x6 times (24)

5 row: (3 sc, 1 inc) x6 times (30)

6 row: (4 sc, 1 inc) x6 times (36)

7 row: 36 sc

8 row: (5 sc, 1 inc) x6 times (42)

9 row: 42 sc

10 row: (6 sc, 1 inc) x6 times (48)

11-14 row: 48 sc

15 row: 12 inc for the front loop, 4 sc, 12 inc for the front loop, 20 sc (72)

16 row: 72 sc

17 row: 52 sc, 1 dec, 16 sc, 1 dec (70)

18 row: 52 sc, 1 dec, 14 sc, 1 dec (68)

19 row: 52 sc, 1 dec, 12 sc, 1 dec (66)

20 row: 52 sc, 1 dec, 10 sc, 1 dec (64)

21 rows: 52 sc, 1 dec, 8 sc, 1 dec (62)

22 row: 52 sc, 1 dec, 6 sc, 1 dec (60)

23 row: 60 sc

24 row: (8 sc, 1 dec) x6 times (54)

25 row: (2 sc, 1 dec) x5 times, 8 sc, (1 dec, 2 sc) x6 times, 1 dec (42)

26 row: (1 sc, 1 dec) x5 times, 8 sc, (1 dec, 1 sc) x5 times, 2 dec (30)

27 row: (3 sc, 1 dec) x6 times (24)

28 row: (2 sc, 1 dec) x6 times (18)

29 row: (1 sc, 1 dec) x6 times (12)

Finish sl-st, cut the thread.

Tightly stuff the part.

Ears (2 parts)

1 row: 6 sc in amigurumi ring (6)

2 row: 6 inc (12)

3 row: (3 inc, 3 sc) x2 times (18)

4th row: ((1 sc, inc) x3 times, 3 sc) x2 times (24)

5 row: 5 sc, inc, 11 sc, inc, 6 sc (26)

6 row: 5 sc, 2 inc, 11 sc, 2 inc, 6 sc (30)

7 row: 30 sc

8 row: 6 sc, 2 inc, 13 sc, 2 inc, 7 sc (34)

9 row: 34 sc

10 row: 7 sc, 2 inc, 15 sc, 2 inc, 8 sc (38)

11-32 row: 38 sc (22 rows)

Finish sl-st, leave thread for sewing, do not stuff.

Arms (2 parts)

1 row: 6 sc in amigurumi ring (6)

2 row: 6 inc (12)

3-4 row: 12 sc

5 row: 3 dec, 6 sc (9)

6 row: 1 sc, inc, 7 sc (10)

7-20 row: 10 sc (14 rows)

Finish sl-st, leave thread for sewing, do not stuff.

Variety of cuts

I twist as I knit (first one leg, then the other, then the arms, etc.).

It will require approximately 1.5 meters of wire. If a

it is advisable to wrap the wire without braid with adhesive tape.

The photo shows how roughly the frame inside the toy looks.

Knitting with a frame is not very convenient, but you will succeed!

Legs (2 parts)

1 row: dial 9 ch, from the 2nd loop from the hook knit 7 sc, 3 sc in one loop,

 on the other side 6 sc, 1 inc (18)

2 row: 2 inc, 4 sc, 5 inc, 4 sc, 3 inc (28)

3 row: (1 sc, 1 inc) x2 times, 4 sc, (1 sc, 1 inc) x5 times, 4 sc, (1 sc, 1 inc) x3 times (38)

4th row: (2 sc, 1 inc) x2 times, 4 sc, (2 sc, 1 inc) x5 times, 4 sc, (2 sc, 1 inc) x3 times (48)

5-7 row: 48 sc

8 row: (6 sc, 1 dec) x6 times (42)

9 row: 12 sc, 9 dec, 12 sc (33)

10 row: (9 sc, 1 dec) x3 times (30)

11 row: 9 sc, 6 dec, 9 sc (24)

12 row: (2 sc, 1 dec) x6 times (18)

Insert wire, stuff

13 row: 3 sc, 6 dec, 3 sc (12)

14-15 row: 12 sc

16 row: (3 sc, 1 inc) x3 times (15)

17-20 row: 15 sc

21 row: (4 sc, 1 inc) x3 times (18)

22-25 row: 18 sc

Finish sl-st, cut the thread, fill.

You need to fill your feet

pretty tight so as not to

there were folds! For more

even soles

put insole and for

better stability

put weighting

(pebbles, coins, etc.)

Body

Stuff in the course of knitting

26 row: start knitting from the middle of the inner part of the left leg

 (5 sc, 1 inc) x3 times, 3 ch, on the right foot (from the middle of the inside)

 (5 sc, 1 inc) x3 times

27 row: 3 sc on a chain of ch, 21 sc, 3 sc on the other side of a chain of ch, 21 sc

 (the result should be a circular row of 48 sc)

28-34 row: 48 sc

35 row: (6 sc, 1 dec) x6 times (42)

36-37 row: 42 sc

38 row: (5 sc, 1 dec) x6 times (36)

39-40 row: 36 sc

41 row: (4 sc, 1 dec) x6 times (30)

42-43 row: 30 sc

44 row: (3 sc, 1 dec) x6 times (24)

45 row: 24 sc

In the next row we display the wire for pens.

Fill the body well, bend the wire and try on

pens.

46 row: (2 sc, 1 dec) x6 times (18) – in this row we display the wire for pens

47-49 row: 18 sc

50 row: (1 sc, 1 dec) x6 times (12)

Finish sl-st, leave thread for sewing, fill well.

• Now can to sew pens.

Tail

1 row: 6 sc in amigurumi ring (6)

2 row: 6 inc (12)

3 row: 12 sc

4 row: (2 sc, 1 dec) x3 times (9)

Finish sl-st, leave thread for sewing, fill.

Mark the points – the places of the hair extensions and the places where the nose and eyebrows will be.

Find the 15th row on the face:

(12 inc for the front loop, 4 sc, 12 inc for the front loop, 20 sc). Blue dots

in the photo I marked 4 sc which are between increments. Be guided by them at a marking.

EYES – between 14 and 15 rows, between eyes 10 sc

NOS – 6 sc wide and 2 rows high – the top points between 15 and 16 rows

EYEBROWS – the top points between the 6th and 7th rows, between the eyebrows 7 sc

How to make a weight loss:

At one point we insert a needle – at another we withdraw. Spend back by sweeping nearby after 1

a loop. Pull the thread, tighten the knot. Can be repeated again for better fixation.

tightening. With numbers I marked the points that we will pull together.

1. To tighten points 1-3-4-2

2. Tighten points 2-5-6-1

3. To tighten points 2-7-8-1

4. To tighten points 4-7-8-3

5. To tighten points 4-5-6-3

6. Lay the thread over the line from one corner of the mouth to the other and the nose bridge from one eye to slightly tighten to the other and tighten a little

7. Thread a smile line

8. Glue the eyes

RESPONSE

Look if the markings of the nose are “gone” to the side after tightening. If necessary, align

marking focusing on the eyes.

– Lay the thread of the nose border and embroider the 1st layer.

– We don’t insert a needle into the toy, we enter the needle only under the threads with which the nose is delimited.

– Do not tighten the thread. Make sure that the thread lies evenly.

We also embroider the 2nd layer,

only now horizontally.

And again we don’t introduce the needle into the toy,

but only for thread-delimiters.

And the last 3rd layer is embroidered very carefully so that the thread to the thread lay.

The needle is now inserted into the toy, clearly between the rows.

From all 4 sides of the spout we make stitches, slightly pulling the thread (we form a beautiful shape).

We fix the thread and hide it inside the toy.

The nose is ready. If desired, it can be tinted and varnished.

• Embroider eyebrows and mouth with black thread.

• Tint the cheeks.

• Sew your ears based on the photo.

Fold your ear like in the photo and lock with stitches. Pull it well.

Sew on the ears to tightly one to the other.

Shoes

Start with a light brown yarn.

1 row: dial 9 ch, 7 sc from the second loop from the hook, 3 sc into one loop,

 on the other side 6 sc, 1 inc (18)

2 row: 1 inc, 6 sc, 3 inc, 6 sc, 2 inc (24)

3 row: 1 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc, (1 sc, 1 inc) x3 times, 6 sc, (1 sc, 1 inc) x2 times (30)

4 row: 2 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc, (2 sc, 1 inc) x3 times, 6 sc, (2 sc, 1 inc) x2 times (36)

5 row: 3 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc, (3 sc, 1 inc) x3 times, 6 sc, (3 sc, 1 inc) x2 times (42)

6 row: 4 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc, (4 sc, 1 inc) x3 times, 6 sc, (4 sc, 1 inc) x2 times (48)

Change the yarn to blue.

7 row: behind the back loop 48 sc

8-11 row: 48 sc

Change the yarn to blue (ethamine).

12-14 row: 48 sc

The next rows are better to knit

putting shoes on the leg, otherwise later

it will be impossible to dress him.

15 row: (6 sc, 1 dec) x6 times (42)

Level the marker!

16 row: 15 sc, 6 dec, 15 sc (36)

17 row: (4 sc, 1 dec) x6 times (30)

Finish sl-st, fasten and hide the thread.

 Note!

The marker should be located along the axis of the visually passing through the initial chain of 9 air loops.

Vest

Start with blue yarn (jeans)

We knit a belt:

Make a chain of 56 air loops

1 row: from the second loop from the hook, knit 55 sc,

 turn work (55)

2 row: 1 ch, 55 sc (55)

To the other side of the chain of 56 air loops

we attach blue yarn (ethamine) and knit

dress top:

• – knit in straight and rotary rows

• – each new row starts with 1 ch

1-7 row: 55 sc

8 row: (8 sc, 1 dec) x2 times, (7sc, 1 dec) x3 times, 8 sc (50)

9 row: 50 sc

10 row: 6 sc, 1 dec, (7 sc, 1 dec) x4 times, 6 sc (45)

11 row: 45 sc

12 row: (6 sc, 1 dec) x5 times, 5 sc (40)

13 row: 6 sc, 10 ch, skip 8 sc (for armhole)

 12 sc, 10 ch, skip 8 sc, 6 sc

14th row: 6 sc, 10 sc in a chain of 10 ch, 12 sc, 10 sc in a chain of 10 ch, 6 sc (44)

15 row: 5 sc, 1 dec, 8 sc, 1 dec, 10 sc, 1 dec, 8 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc (40)

16 row: 4 sc, 1 dec, (3 sc, 1 dec) x2 times, 8 sc, 1 dec, (3 sc, 1 dec) x2 times, 4 sc (34)

17 row: 4 sc, 1 dec, (2 sc, 1 dec) x2 times, 6 sc, 1 dec, (2 sc, 1 dec) x2 times, 4 sc (28)

Finish, leave the thread for stitching the dress.

The bottom of the dress consists of:

• Lace skirt – attach to the 2nd row of the belt (front loops)

• Petticoat – attach to the 2nd row of the belt (back loops)

 The scheme of the lace skirt:

(yarnart “violet”)

Petticoat:

Attach blue yarn (ethamine)

• knit in straight and rotary rows

• each new row starts with 2 ch

1 row: knit in each loop (1 dc, 1 ch)

2-4 row: knit under each ch of the previous row (1 dc, 1 ch)

5 row: knit under each ch of the previous row (2 dc, 1 ch)

6 row: knit dc over each column and over each ch

7 row: all dc

8 row: all sc

• Sew on your head.

• Wear a dress. Sew on the back.

Ribbon

Blue yarn (ethamine)

• knit in straight and rotary rows

• each new row starts with 1 ch

Dial a chain of 35 air loops

1 row: from the second loop from the hook, knit 34 sc

2-16 row: 34 sc

Attach the violet yarn and knit around sc

Jumper bow (“violet”):

Dial 10 ch, 8 sc from the second loop from the hook, 3 sc into one loop,

on the other side 7 sc, 1 inc (20)

Finish sl-st, leave thread to staple.

Wrap the middle of the bow with a jumper and sew

jumper edges on the back of the bow.

Sew a bow to the ears.

Bag

Start with a light brown yarn.

1 row: dial 6 ch, 4 sc from the second loop from the hook, 3 sc into one loop,

 on the other side 3 sc, 1 inc (12)

2 row: 1 inc, 3 sc, 3 inc, 3 sc, 2 inc (18)

3 row: 1 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, (1 sc, 1 inc) x3 times, 3 sc, (1 sc, 1 inc) x2 times (24)

Change yarn to blue (jeans)

4 row: for the back loop (2 sc, 1 inc) x8 times (32)

5-12 row: 32 sc

13 row: 30 sc, 2 sl-st, 3 ch lift

14 row: knit through 1 column (1 dc, 1 ch), end the row sl-st

15-16 row: 32 sc

Tie with a “step step”

For the handle of the handbag dial 23 ch, from the second loop

knit 22 sc from the hook.

Sew to the purse from the inside between 15 and 16 rows.

For the rope dial 130 ch with yarn “violet” and from the second

knit from the hook 129 sc. Thread into the 14th row.

Similar Visuals

Abbrevations:

Ch – chain

Sc – single crochet;

Sl-st – slip stitch

Dc – double crochet;

Hdc – half double crochet;

Inc – inc (knit 2 sc in 1 loop of the previous row);

Dec – decrease (we knit together 2 loops of the previous row);

3 in 1 – double inc (knit 3 sc in 1 loop of the previous row);

3 together – double decrease (we knit a decrease from three loops at the same time).

Necessary materials:

• Any pink yarn containing mohair (about 50g), as well as some white yarn (about 10g), about 450-550m / 100g (I used Italian bobbin kid-mohair folded in two strands);

• A hook that matches your yarn (mine is 1.5mm);

• Synthetic filler;

• Copper wire with a diameter of 0.75mm for the upper legs and 1mm for the lower legs and overall frame. Consumption depends on the density of your knitting and the chosen yarn;

• A pair of eyes with a diameter of 10 mm and, if desired, pieces of white and pink threads about 1 meter long for the formation of the eyelids (I have it “Jeans” from YartArt);

• Optionally, you can use tinting agents (I have a brown capillary pen and dry pastels of brown and powdery shades);

• Thin fishing line or monofilament for the mustache;

• Other handicraft devices (pliers, cloth adhesive plaster, Velcro for clothes or a slicker for fleece, glue, scissors, needles and threads for tightening and embroidering a nose, etc.).

When using the same materials, the Hare turns out to be about 25 cm tall.

All parts of the toy are knitted in a spiral, unless otherwise indicated in the description.

For convenience, when knitting, we will use a thread of a contrasting color – add.

marker. They will denote the end of the current row and the beginning of the next, as well as mark the necessary loops for knitting parts in the knitting process.

When the marker is shifted to the right, we will knit additional loops that are not included in the description – offset loops.

I also recommend not to remove the markers until the end of the knitting of the toy, unless otherwise indicated in the description. This will make it easier for us to navigate the loops if confusion arises in the process.

Paws – legs.

We knit two identical parts. The marker runs along the edge of the foot. The offset loops are indicated in the description.

We knit with pink yarn.

We collect 6 ch, from the second loop from the hook we begin to knit:

1st row: on one side of the chain ch: 4 sc, 3 sc in 1; on the second side of the chain ch: 3 sc, inc (12)

2nd row: (5 sc, inc) x 2 times (14)

Rows 3-7: 14 sc.

At the end of the seventh row, if necessary, knit 1 offset loop.

Rows 8-10: 2 sc, dec, 6 sc, inc, 3 sc (14)

11,12 rows: 1 sc, dec, 6 sc, inc, 4 sc (14)

Add. markers can be used to mark the 8th and 13th loops of the 12th row of both paws, for convenience when tying them into the body.

You don’t need to fill in the details yet. We will do this after knitting.

 Paws – hands.

We knit two identical parts.

The marker runs along the edge of the foot, if necessary, we align it ourselves using the offset loop.

We knit with pink yarn.

We collect 5 ch, we begin to knit from the second loop from the hook.

1 row: on one side of the chain ch: 3 sc, 3 sc in 1; on the second side of the chain ch: 2 sc, inc (10)

2nd row: (4 sc, inc) x 2 times (12)

Rows 3-6: 12 sc.

7 row: 7 sc, dec x 2 times, 1 sc (10)

8 row: 7 sc, 2 sl-st, 1 sc (10)

9-16 rows: 10 sc.

17 row: 1 sc, 2 sl-st, 3 sc, 3 sc 1 x 2 times, 2 sc (14)

Row 18: 1 sc, inc x 2 times, 11 sc (16)

19, 20 rows: 16 sc.

Row 21: 9 sc, dec x 3 times, 1 sc (13)

Rows 22-34: 13 sc.

In the 34th row add. with a marker, you can mark the 3rd and 11th loops of the right foot and the 11th and 6th loops of the left foot for convenience when knitting them into the body.

We insert the frames inside the legs, after making a loop at the end, as shown in the photo. The length of the wire is equal to the length of the legs + 5 cm for connecting the frame of the legs with the common frame of the body.

After that, carefully fill the hands of the paws, form the elbow and shoulder. We stuff the elbow harder so that it keeps its shape better, we stuff the shoulder and brushes resiliently, not until the canvas expands. Leave the distance from the hand to the elbow without filler.

Tail.

The marker is not aligned.

We knit with white yarn.

1st row: 6 sc into magic ring

2nd row: inc x 6 times (12)

3 row: (3 sc in 1, 3 sc) x 3 times (18)

4th row: 1 sc, (3 sc in 1, 5 sc) x 2 times, 3 sc in 1, 4 sc (24)

5 row: 2 sc, 3 sc in 1, (7 sc, inc) x 2 times, 5 sc (28)

6-8 rows: 28 sc.

Row 9: dec, 3 sc together, dec, 21 sc (24)

10 row: 3 sc together, 6 sc, dec x 2 times, 1 sc, dec x 2 times, 6 sc (18)

11 row: 1 sc, dec x 3 times, 5 sc, dec x 3 times (12)

Add. markers can mark the 5th and 9th loops of the 11th row for convenience when

tying the tail into the body.

Body.

We stuff the body elasticly during the knitting process. The marker runs down the middle

belly up. If necessary, align the marker using the offset loop.

We knit with a pink thread.

1st row: 6 sc into magic ring

2nd row: inc x 6 times (12)

3rd row: (1 sc, 3 sc in 1) x 2 times, 4 sc, (3 sc in 1, 1 sc) x 2 times (20)

4th row: 2 sc, 3 sc in 1, 3 sc, 3 sc in 1, 6 sc, 3 sc in 1, 3 sc, 3 sc in 1, 2 sc (28)

5 row: 3 sc, 3 sc in 1, 5 sc, 3 sc in 1, 8 sc, 3 sc in 1, 5 sc, 3 sc in 1, 3 sc (36)

6 row: 4 sc, inc, 7 sc, inc, 10 sc, inc, 7 sc, inc, 4 sc (40)

7 row: 6 sc, knit 6 sc capturing the loops of one leg (from the beginning of the additional marker, see photo) and the body at the same time, inc, 3 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, knit 6 sc, grabbing the sts of the second leg (from the beginning of the additional marker) and the body at the same time, 6 sc (46)

Row 8: Body: 1 sc, inc, 4 sc; on the remaining loops of the leg: 3 sc, 3 sc in 1 x 2 times, 3 sc; on the body: 22 sc; on the remaining loops of the leg: 3 sc, 3 sc in 1 x 2 times, 3 sc; body: 4 sc, inc, 1 sc (60)

9th row: 4 sc, inc, 50 sc, inc, 4 sc (62)

10 row: 2 sc, inc, 56 sc, inc, 2 sc (64)

11 row: 6 sc, inc, 7 sc, inc x 2 times, 32 sc, inc x 2 times, 7 sc, inc, 6 sc (70)

We check the position of the marker, it should be located strictly in the middle of the belly. In the next row we will knit a tail.

12 row: 32 sc, 6 sc capturing the tail loops (from the beginning of the additional marker) and the body at the same time, 32 sc (70)

Row 13: 32 sc, 6 sc along remaining tail loops, 32 sc (70)

Row 14: 16 sc, inc x 2 times, 34 sc, inc x 2 times, 16 sc (74)

15, 16 rows: 74 sc.

17 row: 17 sc, inc x 2 times, 36 sc, inc x 2 times, 17 sc (78)

18, 19 rows: 78 sc.

Row 20: 18 sc, inc x 2 times, 38 sc, inc x 2 times, 18 sc (82)

21, 22 rows: 82 sc.

23 row: 18 sc, dec x 2 times, 38 sc, dec x 2 times, 18 sc (78)

24, 25 rows: 78 sc.

26 row: 17 sc, dec x 2 times, 36 sc, dec x 2 times, 17 sc (74)

27, 28 rows: 74 sc.

Row 29: 16 sc, dec x 2 times, 34 sc, dec x 2 times, 16 sc (70)

We prepare the frame for the lower legs. One of the lines will be used as the main frame.

For the first segment, we measure out a wire equal to the knitted part of the body x 5, for the second we measure a wire equal to the knitted part of the body x 10.

I have sections of 40 and 80 cm, folded in half.

We insert the frames inside the legs, after making a loop at the end, as shown in the photo. Firmly fill the legs, after that we connect the frames to each other using an adhesive plaster.

30 row: 22 sc, (dec, 6 sc) x 3 times, dec, 22 sc (66)

Row 31: 24 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 24 sc (62)

32 row: 15 sc, dec x 2 times, 7 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec x 2 times, 15 sc (56)

Row 33: 20 sc, dec, 12 sc, dec, 20 sc (54)

34 row: 54 sc.

35 row: 14 sc, dec x 2 times, 18 sc, dec x 2 times, 14 sc (50)

36, 37 rows: 50 sc.

38 row: 14 sc, dec, 18 sc, dec, 14 sc (48)

Row 39: 48 sc.

40 row: 13 sc, dec, 18 sc, dec, 13 sc (46)

 41 row: 46 sc.

42 row: 12 sc, dec, 18 sc, dec, 12 sc (44)

43 row: 44 sc.

Row 44: 11 sc, dec, 18 sc, dec, 11 sc (42)

45 row: 42 sc.

46 row: 10 sc, dec, 18 sc, dec, 10 sc (40)

47 row: 40 sc.

48 row: 9 sc, dec, 18 sc, dec, 9 sc (38)

49 row: 38 sc.

50 row: 8 sc, dec, 18 sc, dec, 8 sc (36)

51 row: 36 sc.

Row 52: 8 sc, dec, 16 sc, dec, 8 sc (34)

53 row: 34 sc.

We check the position of the marker, it should be located strictly in the middle of the belly.

In the next row we will knit the legs.

54 row: 6 sc, 6 sc grabbing the loops of the right paw (from the beginning of the additional marker) and the body at the same time, 10 sc, 6 sc capturing the loops of the left paw (from the beginning of the additional marker) and the body at the same time, 6 sc (34)

Row 55: 6 sc, 7 sc over remaining arm loops, 10 sc, 7 sc over remaining arm loops, 6 sc (36)

We fill the body, after that and attach the arm frames to the main body frame.

 56 row: (5 sc, dec) x 2 times, 8 sc, (dec, 5 sc) x 2 times (32)

Row 57: 7 sc, 3 sc together, 12 sc, 3 sc together, 7 sc (28)

Row 58: 5 sc, dec, 1 sc, dec, 8 sc, dec, 1 sc, dec, 5 sc (24)

Row 59: (2 sc, dec) x 6 times (18)

60 row: 18 sc.

We cut the thread, hide it. The hare’s body is ready!

Belly pad.

The overlay is knitted in rotary rows, at the beginning of each row we knit

1 ch lift (this loop is not indicated in the description).

We knit with a white thread.

 We collect 7 ch, from the second loop from the hook we begin to knit.

1st row: 6 sc.

2nd row: inc, 4 sc, inc (8)

3rd row: 8 sc.

4th row: inc, 6 sc, inc (10)

5 row: 10 sc.

6 row: inc, 8 sc, inc (12)

7 row: 12 sc.

8 row: inc, 10 sc, inc (14)

Rows 9-12: 14 sc.

13th row: inc, 12 sc, inc (16)

Rows 14-17: 16 sc.

18 row: inc, 14 sc, inc (18)

19-22 rows: 18 sc.

23 row: inc, 16 sc, inc (20)

24 row: 20 sc.

25 row: inc, 18 sc, inc (22)

26 row: 22 sc.

27 row: inc, 20 sc, inc (24)

Rows 28-33: 24 sc.

34 row: dec, 20 sc, dec (22)

35 row: 22 sc.

36 row: dec, 18 sc, dec (20)

37 row: 20 sc.

38 row: dec, 16 sc, dec (18)

Row 39: 18 sc.

40 row: dec, 14 sc, dec (16)

41 row: 16 sc.

42 row: dec, 12 sc, dec (14)

We do not cut the thread, without turning the work, we tie the resulting part around the perimeter: 42 sc along the edge; 6 sc for half-loops of ch chain along the top of the overlay; 42 sc along the second rib; dec, 10 sc, dec along the bottom of the onlay.

We cut the thread, hide it.

Now it is most convenient to sew an overlay to the body of a hare. Once the head is installed, this will be a little more difficult.

Therefore, we place the pad right next to the last row of the neck, symmetrically fix the part relative to the body marker, take the white auxiliary bobbin thread and sew the pad.

Head.

Knitting begins with the pads, the marker runs along the side of the part, you do not need to align it yet.

We knit with a white thread.

We collect 7 ch, from the second loop from the hook we begin to knit:

1 row: on one side of the chain ch: 5 sc, 3 sc in 1; on the second side of the chain ch: 4 sc, inc (14)

2nd row: inc, 4 sc, inc x 3 times, 4 sc, inc x 2 times (20)

3rd row: 3 sc, inc x 2 times, 4 sc, inc x 2 times, 6 sc, inc x 2 times, 1 sc (26)

4th row: 3 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc x 2 times, 8 sc, inc x 2 times, 2 sc (32)

5 row: 2 sc, inc, 6 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc x 2 times, 10 sc, inc x 2 times, 3 sc (38)

6-10 rows: 38 sc.

11 row: 19 sc, dec x 2 times, 10 sc, dec x 2 times, 1 sc (34)

We cut the thread, hide it. Count 9 sc clockwise from the last stitch in row 11. We expose a new marker. It should be located strictly in the middle of the muzzle.

We continue to knit in pink, starting from the 10th loop, that is, the next one after the new marker.

Next, align the marker in the middle of the face using the offset loop.

12 row: inc x 3 times, 28 sc, inc x 3 times (40)

13 row: 5 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc x 3 times, 14 sc, inc x 3 times, 4 sc, inc, 5 sc (48)

14th row: 1 sc, inc, 8 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 20 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 8 sc, inc, 1 sc (54)

15 row: 4 sc, inc, 8 sc, inc x 2 times, 24 sc, inc x 2 times, 8 sc, inc, 4 sc (60)

16 row: 2 sc, inc, 12 sc, inc x 2 times, 26 sc, inc x 2 times, 12 sc, inc, 2 sc (66)

Row 17: 5 sc, inc, 11 sc, inc x 2 times, 28 sc, inc x 2 times, 11 sc, inc, 5 sc (72)

18 row: (1 sc, inc) x 2 times, 64 sc, (inc, 1 sc) x 2 times (76)

19th row: inc, 2 sc, inc, 68 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc (80)

20-25 rows: 80 sc.

Align the position of the marker. In the next row we will form a hole for the frame.

26 row: 39 sc, 2 ch (skip 2 sc), 39 sc (80)

27-30 rows: 80 sc.

31 row: 8 sc, dec, 14 sc, dec, 28 sc, dec, 14 sc, dec, 8 sc (76)

32 row: 7 sc, dec, 13 sc, dec, 28 sc, dec, 13 sc, dec, 7 sc (72)

Row 33: 6 sc, dec, 12 sc, dec, 28 sc, dec, 12 sc, dec, 6 sc (68)

34 row: 5 sc, dec, 11 sc, dec, 28 sc, dec, 11 sc, dec, 5 sc (64)

35 row: 4 sc, dec, 10 sc, dec, 28 sc, dec, 10 sc, dec, 4 sc (60)

36 row: (8 sc, dec) x 6 times (54)

37 row: 54 sc.

38 row: (7 sc, dec) x 6 times (48)

Row 39: (6 sc, dec) x 6 times (42)

40 row: (5 sc, dec) x 6 times (36)

Firmly fill the head up to about the middle.

We insert the wire coming out of the neck into the hole in the head. We twist the remaining end of the wire in a spiral and put it inside the head.

We continue to knit together with the frame, finally stuffing our head in the process.

41 row: (4 sc, dec) x 6 times (30)

42 row: (3 sc, dec) x 6 times (24)

43 row: (2 sc, dec) x 6 times (18)

44 row: (1 sc, dec) x 6 times (12)

We leave the resulting hole not closed, later we will make tightening through it.

Cut off the thread, leaving a long end to knit the last row.

We will tie 45 row after tightening: dec x 6 times (6)

Ears.

Each ear consists of two identical parts (half-ears), connected to form one whole ear.

First, we knit a white half-ear, after that we knit a pink one.

All parts are knitted in rotary rows, at the beginning of each row do not forget to knit 1 ch lift (it is not indicated in the description).

We collect 2 ch, from the second loop from the hook we begin to knit.

1 row: 3 sc in 1 (3)

2nd row: inc, 1 sc, inc (5)

3rd row: 5 sc.

4th row: inc, 3 sc, inc (7)

5 row: 7 sc.

6 row: inc, 5 sc, inc (9)

7 row: 9 sc.

8 row: inc, 7 sc, inc (11)

9 row: 11 sc.

10 row: inc, 9 sc, inc (13)

11 row: 13 sc.

12th row: inc, 11 sc, inc (15)

Rows 13-20: 15 sc.

21 row: dec, 11 sc, dec (13)

22 row: 13 sc.

23 row: dec, 9 sc, dec (11)

24 row: 11 sc.

25 row: dec, 7 sc, dec (9)

26 row: 9 sc.

27 row: dec, 5 sc, dec (7)

28 row: 7 sc.

Without turning the work, we knit in a circle:

27 sc along the rib, 3 sc in 1 (half-ear angle), 27 sc along the second rib.

Cut the thread at the white half-ear, hide it.

We do not cut the thread of the pink half-ear, we begin to connect the half-ears with it into a full ear.

We place the details with the wrong sides to ourselves, first a pink half-ear, then a white one (see photo above).

We knit along the perimeter, capturing the loops of both half ears:

Row 1: ch, 28 sc, inc to top, 28 sc, 7 sc to bottom.

We connect the lower corners of the ear to each other. Insert the hook into the last knitted stitch, then into the first knitted stitch of row 1, knit 1 sl-st.

The missed distance is 7 sc along the bottom of the ear.

Row 2: 56 sl-st along the remaining ear loops.

Cut the thread, leaving the end for sewing. We bring it to the edge of the ear.

We knit the second ear in the same way.

I recommend combing and trimming the ears immediately before sewing.

Straighteners.

Now it is convenient to sew the head to the body, which we will do!

And after that we will deal with the tightening.

Tie points:

1 and 4 – 14 rows, 7 sc to the right and left of the marker line, respectively.

2 and 3 – 14 rows, 9 sc to the right and left of the marker line, respectively.

We fix the thread at point 2.

We introduce the needle at point 1 and bring it out into the hole left on the back of the head.

We pick up a little filler, and from the hole on the back of the head, without touching the knitted fabric, we bring the needle to point 2.

We tighten the thread well, repeat the tightening.

We tighten the second eye socket in the same way. We fix the new thread at point 3, insert the needle at point 4 and bring it out into the hole on the back of the head.

We pick up the filler and bring the needle to point 3. We tighten the thread, repeat the tightening. After both eye sockets are ready, we check the depth of both ties and only after that we fix the threads.

You can also shape the bridge of the nose.

From point 2, from the outside, we enter into point 1.

From the inside of the head we bring the needle to point 4, and from the outside we introduce it to point 3. Next, from the inside we bring the needle out to point 2.

We tighten the thread to form a tightening, if necessary, repeat the process. We fix and cut the thread.

Next, let’s start shaping the nose.

We comb the pads and carefully trim this area, leaving a pile of 1-2 mm in length to give the canvas a velvety texture.

Nose embroidery points:

Points 1 and 2 are row 4, 5 sc to the right and left of the marker line, respectively.

Point 3 – 1 row along the marker line.

Point 4 – 8 rows down the marker line.

Points 5 and 6 are 11 rows down, 5 sc to the right and left of the marker line, respectively.

We fix the thread at point 3, from the outside we introduce the needle to point 1, from the inside we bring it back to point 3.

From point 3 from the outside we introduce the needle to point 2, from the inside we bring it back to point 3.

From point 3, on the inside, we draw the needle to point 4, from the outside, we take it to point 3.

You can also shape a smile.

To do this, from point 3, from the inside, we draw the needle to point 5.

From point 5 on the outside we enter

the needle to point 4, on the inside we get to point 6, we return on the outside to point 4.

If necessary, we repeat the whole process, fix the thread, hide it and cut it off.

Now let’s start sewing on the ears.

 Conditional sewing points for ears – 26 row, 16 sc to the right and left of the marker line.

30 row, 15 sc to the right and left of the marker line.

Since I fixed the ears on my head without the help of a wire, I had to work a little to get them into the desired position.

To do this, we sew the ear along the entire perimeter, pulling the thread well with each stitch.

After that, you can additionally fix the eyelet with a waist.

We withdraw the needle in the middle of the ear through the canvas in the head. At the base of the ear, from the inside, we introduce the needle and bring it to the outside in two rows above (see photo).

Next, we stitch the ear through and through, grabbing a couple of loops of the head canvas, and return to the starting point in the middle of the ear. We tighten the thread for better fixation, repeat the process if necessary. Cut the thread and hide it.

Sew the second ear in the same way.

Now we can finally comb our hare. We scratch everything except the back of the head.

We do not close the hole there yet, we will do it a little later.

You can also trim your feet and hands and trim your belly a little.

If, like me, your ears are a little loose when combing and no longer hold the desired shape, you can make the last through-tightening.

To do this, we fix the thread in the middle of the ear, at the base.

We stitch it through and insert the thread near the ear at the crown.

We draw the thread inside the head, draw it to a symmetrical point on the crown next to the second ear

(see photo)

Sew through the second ear and remove the needle at its base.

After making a stitch in the same loop at the base of the ear, sew through the head and return to the starting point. We tighten the thread well, the ears should fit tightly into the head.

Repeat the hauling if necessary. We fasten, hide and cut the thread.

Face decoration.

We sew or glue the pupils into the places of the eye sockets.

You can also shape the eyelids of the hare if you wish.

To do this, cut off two identical lengths of pink and white threads, about 35 cm long, and connect them together with an ordinary knot.

For centuries, I took yarn about 1.5 times thicker than yarn for knitting a hare.

We insert the needle into the hole on the back of the head, do not tighten the end of the thread with the knot inward, it should hang freely for the convenience of aligning and securing future eyelids.

We withdraw the needle to the edge of the eye, closer to the middle of the pupil.

We introduce the needle at the bridge of the nose symmetrically to the first point (see photo).

And again we bring the needle into the hole in the back of the head.

We design the second eyelid in the same way.

After that we equalize the tension of the threads and check the symmetry of the eyelids with each other.

We fix the eyelids with glue. To do this, carefully move the thread away from the pupil, apply glue to a needle or a toothpick, go through a thin layer of glue along the perimeter of the pupil and carefully fix the eyelids around the eye. It is more convenient to do this in turn. First the upper eyelid, then the lower.

Further, you can safely fasten the threads at the back of the head. It is enough just to tie them together several times, cut off the excess length and lay the threads inside the head.

 Now you can finally close the hole in the head, after adding the required amount of filler inside, and comb the back of the head.

And now we will deal with the constrictions on the legs.

First, let’s pull the legs.

We count four rows up from the beginning of knitting.

We will do the banners from right to left.

The distance between them is 2 sc.

We fasten the thread on the inside of the foot and start the process.

We make the first stitch on top of the canvas, tighten the thread tightly.

We draw the needle inside the canvas, display it in the place of the second constriction.

We repeat: we pulled it, tightened the thread, brought it out in place of the third constriction.

We repeat.

If the constrictions seem thin, repeat the process again, but from left to right. We fix and hide the thread.

The first foot is ready, we do the same with the second.

We pull the handles according to the same principle, with only one difference – we retreat three rows from the beginning of knitting and make constrictions at a distance of 1 sc from each other.

Toning.

I decided to place accents on the face, as well as highlight the ears and legs.

To do this, take a dry pastel of suitable shades (I have brown and powdery) and a brown capillary pen.

It is better to rub dry pastel into powder and work with it with a brush.

With a darker shade, we highlight the eyelids, as well as the contour of the nose and smile. After that, we go through the same areas with lighter shades, slightly shading all the lines. For the eyelids, I used pastels of brown shades, for the nose and smile – powdery colors.

Optionally, for greater expressiveness, the eyelids can be brought in with a capillary handle.

We shade the ears along the contour with a powdery color, shading the pastel well with a brush or a slicker.

With brown pastel we outline the contours of the constrictions on the legs.

Materials:

Can be knitted from any yarn

I have – the main one –

Himalaya “Dolphin Baby” (% 100 Micro Polyester, 90 m / 100 g)

and Katia “Velvet Fine” (100% polyester, 160 m / 50 g)

Eyes 10 and 12mm.

Wire optional (pink Zaya on the frame).

Extra yarn for spout and trim –

– Gazzal “Baby Cotton” (60% cotton, 40% polyacrylic, 165 m / 50g)

– and Katia “Velvet Fine” is a different color.

Abbrevations:

Inc – incraise

Dec – decraise

sc – single crochet.

dc – double crochet.

d2c – double crochet.

sl-st – connecting post.

ch – air loop.

We knit in a spiral, use a marker. Head, ears and legs dangle.

Lower legs.

main thread, marker runs down the middle, back.

1.6sc into magic ring. (6)

2. (inc) * 6. (12)

3. (1sc, inc) * 6. (eighteen)

4.5sc, (fluffy column (additional thread – 3dc in one column,), main thread –

sc in the next column) * 4, 5sc.

Lush column with one crochet Knit 3 columns with one crochet without completing the last stage, grab the working thread and knit all the loops together.

5.5sc, (dec) * 4, 5sc. (fourteen)

6.14sc. (fourteen)

7.4sc, (inc) * 6, 4sc. (20)

8.4sc, (1sc, inc) * 6, 4sc. (26)

9 – 11. Three rows 26sc. (26)

12.5sc, (inc, 3sc) * 4, inc, 4sc. (31)

On the left foot – do not tie the last 4 columns, cut the thread, fasten.

On the right – knit 3sc, do not cut the thread.

We apply the left one to the pea and knit with a separate thread together 5sc, cut the thread, fasten it, fill it.

I inserted a button into the sole of the foot.

We continue to knit the little body, the marker goes down the middle of the back.

Fill in as you knit.

1. put a marker,

3sc, (inc, 1sc) * 3, inc, 9sc, (inc, 2sc) * 2, inc – on the left foot,

inc, (2sc, inc) * 2, 9sc, inc, (1sc, inc) * 3, inc, 3sc – right (66)

2.66sc. (66)

3.3sc, (inc, 2sc) * 3, 42sc, (2sc, inc) * 3, 3sc. (72)

4 – 8 five rows 72sc. (72)

9.5sc, dec, (10sc, dec) * 5.5sc. (66)

10.66sc. (66)

11. (9sc, dec) * 6. (60)

12.4sc, dec, (8sc, dec) * 5.4sc. (54)

13.54sc. (54)

14. (7sc, dec) * 6. (48)

15.48sc. (48)

16.3sc, dec, (6sc, dec) * 5.3sc. (42)

17.42sc. (42)

18. (5sc, dec) * 6. (36)

19.36sc. (36)

20.2sc, dec, (4sc, dec) * 5.2sc. (thirty)

21.30sc. (thirty

22. (3sc, dec) * 6. (24)

23.24sc. (24)

24. (dec, 2sc,) * 6. (eighteen)

25 – 32. Eight rows 18sc. (eighteen)

We knit holes for the upper legs,

33.3sc, 3ch, skip 3 columns, 6sc, 3ch, skip 3 columns, 3sc.

34.3sc, 3sc on ch, 6sc, 3sc on ch, 3sc. (eighteen)

35 – 37 three rows 18sc. (eighteen)

Cut the thread, fix it.

Front legs.

The main thread, you can not follow the marker, do not fill.

1. Attach the thread to the first, from the missing, column

3sc, 1sc between rows, 3sc along ch, 1sc between rows. (8)

2 – 21. Twenty rows of 8sc. (20)

22. inc, 3sc, inc, 3sc. (ten)

23. inc, 4sc, inc, 4sc. (12)

24.2sc, inc, 5sc, inc, 3sc. (fourteen)

We knit the “palm” of the paws with a heart, make sure that the middle of the paws of both paws is the same.

Divide in half

We skip 6 columns, in the seventh –

and. inc, 5sc, inc. (nine)

b. 9sc. (nine)

from. (dec) * 4.1sc. Cut the thread, tighten, fasten and hide.

We attach the thread to the separation column and knit a, b, c.

Spout. The pink nose and body are made of katya, the hook is smaller.

We start with a finishing thread for the spout.

1.6sc into magic ring. (6)

2. (inc) * 6. (12)

3. (1sc, inc) * 6. (eighteen)

4.18sc. (eighteen)

5.18sc. (eighteen)

6. (1sc, dec) * 6. (12) next row with main thread.

Extra yarn spout.

1.6sc into magic ring. (6)

2. (inc) * 6. (12)

3 – 4. Two rows 12sc. (12)

5. (dec) * 6. (6)

6. Change the color (inc) * 6. (12)

Continuing the head, the marker runs along the chin and in the middle of the back of the head.

1. (1sc, inc) * 6. (eighteen)

2.3sc, (inc) * 3, 6sc, (inc) * 3, 3sc. (24)

3. (3sc, inc) * 6. (thirty)

4.6sc, (inc) * 3, 12sc, (inc) * 3, 6sc. (36)

5. (5sc, inc) * 6. (42)

6.9sc, (inc) * 3, 18sc, (inc) * 3, 9sc. (48)

7. (7sc, inc) * 6. (54)

8. (8sc, inc) * 6. (60)

9. (9sc, inc) * 6. (66)

10. (10sc, inc) * 6. (72)

11. (11sc, inc) * 6. (78)

12. (12sc, inc) * 6. (84)

13.37sc, (inc, 2sc) * 3, inc, 37sc. (88)

14.88sc. (88)

15.3sc, (dec, 2sc) * 5, dec, 12sc, (inc, 2sc) * 4, inc, 12sc, (dec, 2sc) * 5, dec, 4sc. (81)

16.dec, 79sc. (80)

17 – 18 two rows 80sc. (80)

19. (2sc, dec) * 4, 48sc, (dec, 2sc) * 4. (72)

Neck opening.

20.70sc, 2ch, skip 2 columns. (70)

21.2ch, skip 2 columns, 68sc, 2sc under ch. (68)

22.2sc under ch, 70sc. (72)

23.72sc. (72)

24. (10sc, dec) * 6. (66)

Lug holes.

25.29sc, 3ch, skip 3 columns, 3sc, 3ch, skip 3 columns, 28sc. (60)

26.29sc, 3sc in ch, 3sc, 3sc in ch, 28sc. (66)

27. (9sc, dec) * 6. (60)

28.4sc, dec, (8sc, dec) * 5, 4sc. (54)

29. (7sc, dec) * 6. (48)

30.3sc, dec, (6sc, dec) * 5, 3sc. (42)

31. (5sc, dec) * 6. (36)

32.2sc, dec, (4sc, dec) * 5, 2sc. (thirty)

33. (3sc, dec) * 6. (24) fill in.

The last rowwe tie it after all the ties:

34. (2sc, dec) * 6. (eighteen)

35. (1sc, dec) * 6. (12)

36. (dec) * 6. (6) cut the thread, tighten, fasten and hide.

Ears are the main thread, you can not follow the marker, do not fill.

We attach the thread to the first of the skipped loops,

1 – 5. Five rows 6sc. (6)

6.inc, 2sc, inc, 2sc. (8)

7 – 9. Three rows of 8sc. (8)

10.inc, 3sc, inc, 3sc. (ten)

11 – 13. Three rows 10sc. (ten)

14.inc, 4sc, inc, 4sc. (12)

15 -17. Three rows of 12sc. (12)

18.inc, 5sc, inc, 5sc. (fourteen)

19 – 21. Three rows 14sc. (fourteen)

22. inc, 6sc, inc, 6sc. (sixteen)

23 – 30. Eight rows 16sc. (sixteen)

31. inc, 7sc, inc, 7sc. (eighteen)

32. inc, 8sc, inc, 8sc. (20)

33. inc, 9sc, inc, 9sc. (22)

34. inc, 10sc, inc, 10sc. (24)

35.24sc. (24)

We divide the ear in half, the last 24th column should be in the middle of the ear,

if not, knit the required number of stitches.

We continue the first half of the ear –

1. Skip 11 columns, inc, 10sc, inc. (fourteen)

2.14sc. (fourteen)

3. (Dec) * 7. (7) cut, tighten and hide the thread.

We also knit the second half of the ear.

Hearts for the ears and under the eyes are large.

In ka we type – 3ch, 4d2c, 3dc, ch, dc, ch, 3dc, 4d2c, 3ch, sl-st.

Pull the amigurumi into the ring.

Can be tied behind the back walls with single crochet posts.

Hearts for paws and eyes are small.

In ka we type – 2ch, 4dc, 3sc, ch, dc, ch, 3sc, 4dc, 2ch, sl-st.

Pull the amigurumi into the ring.

Tail.

1.6sc into magic ring

2. (inc) * 6. (12)

3. (1sc, inc) * 6. (eighteen)

4. (2sc, inc) * 6. (24)

5. (sc, dec) * 3, (inc) * 6, (dec, sc) * 3. (24)

6.24sc.

We fill in the process of sewing, (with increments to the bottom, between 4 and 5 rows from the connecting paws.)

We outline the location of the eye and mouth.

We pull each “eye” separately through the hole for the frame.

We pull each corner of the mouth separately through the not tied hole on the crown.

Sew on hearts, eyes. We embroider the mouth and eyebrows.

Eyes – basting, between 6 and 7 rows, 12 columns between the peephole.

Mouth – basting, between 9 and 10 rows, 11 columns between basting.

We knit the hind legs and body up to the 9th row in the same way.

10 – 14 five rows 66sc. (66)

15 (9sc, dec) * 6. (60)

16 60sc. (60)

17 4sc, dec, (8sc, dec) * 5, 4sc. (54)

18 (7sc, dec) * 6. (48)

19 3sc, dec, (6sc, dec) * 5, 3sc. (42)

20 (5sc, dec) * 6. (36)

21 36sc. (36)

22 2sc, dec, (4sc, dec) * 5.2sc. (thirty)

23 30sc. (thirty)

24 (3sc, dec) * 6. (24)

25 – 26 two rows 24sc. (24)

27 knit a hole for the legs, 4sc, 4ch – skip 4 columns, 8sc,

4ch – skip 4 columns, 4sc. (24)

28 4sc, 4sc on ch, 8sc, 4sc on ch, 4sc. (24)

29 sc, dec, (2sc, dec) * 5, sc. (eighteen)

30 18sc. (eighteen). We fix the thread, cut it off.

Upper paws.

We knit in a spiral, you can not follow the marker.

1 Along left sts 4sc, sc between rows, 4sc along ch, sc between rows. (ten)

2 – 7 six rows 10sc. (ten)

8 (front decrements) (dec) * 2, 6sc. (8)

9 (inc) * 2, 6sc. (ten)

10 10sc. (ten)

11 4sc, inc, 5sc. (eleven)

12 inc, 10sc. (12)

13 – 17 five rows 12sc. (12)

18 (dec) * 6. (6). Cut the thread, pull together and hide.

Ears

We knit in a spiral, you can not follow the marker.

1.6sc into magic ring. (6)

2. (inc) * 6. (12)

3.12sc. (12)

4. (sc, inc) * 6. (eighteen)

5.18sc. (eighteen)

6. (2sc, inc) * 6. (24)

7.24sc.

8. (3sc, inc) * 6. (thirty)

9 – 11 three rows 30sc. (thirty)

12. (3sc, dec) * 6. (24)

13 – 14 two rows of 24sc. (24)

15 (2sc, dec) * 6. (eighteen)

16 – 17 two rows 18sc. (eighteen)

18 (sc, dec) * 6. (12)

19 – 20 two rows 12sc. (12)

Cut off and fasten the thread.

To decorate the middle of the ear, we collect a chain of 21 loops,

from the second from the hook 20sc, turn, in each column (ch, sl-st) * 20.

Fold in half and sew to the middle of the ear.

Head.

We knit in a spiral, follow the marker, runs along the chin and the middle of the back of the head.

We start with the spout with the same thread of a different color.

1 6sc into magic ring. (6)

2 (inc) * 6. (12)

3 – 4 two rows 12sc. (12)

5 (dec) * 6. (6) change the color to the main one.

1 (inc) * 6. (12)

2 (sc, inc) * 6. (eighteen)

3 3sc, (inc) * 3.6sc, (inc) * 3.3sc. (24)

4 (3sc, inc) * 6. (thirty)

5 6sc, (inc) * 3.12sc, (inc) * 3.6sc. (36)

6 (5sc, inc) * 6. (42)

7 9sc, (inc) * 3.18sc, (inc) * 3.9sc. (48)

8 (7sc, inc) * 6. (54)

9 12sc, (inc) * 3.24sc, (inc) * 3.12sc. (60)

10 (9sc, inc) * 6. (66)

11 – 13 three rows 66sc. (66)

14 we knit a hole (for the frame) on the neck, (3sc, dec) * 3, 36sc, (dec, 3sc) * 2, dec, sc, 2ch – skip 2 columns. (58)

15 2ch – skip 2 columns, 56sc, 2sc for ch. (58)

16 2sc on ch, 58sc. (60)

17 60sc. (60)

18 in this row we knit in half of the ears.

22sc, 6sc with one half of the lug, 4sc, 6sc with one half of the second lug,

22sc. (60)

19 – 21 three rows 60sc. (60)

22 4sc, dec, (8sc, dec) * 5.4sc. (54)

23 54sc. (54)

24 (7sc, dec) * 6. (48)

25 3sc, dec, (6sc, dec) * 5.3sc. (42)

26 (5sc, dec) * 6. (36)

27 2sc, dec, (4sc, dec) * 5,2sc. (30)

28 (3sc, dec) * 6. (24)

Fill the head, tie the eyelet after tightening and sewing on.

29 sc, dec, (2sc, dec) * 5, sc. (eighteen)

30 (sc, dec) * 6. (12)

31 (dec) * 6. (6) cut, tighten and hide the thread.

We do each tightening separately.

We place the basting for the tightening.

The mouth from the nose down between 8-9 rows, 5 columns between the basting.

Eyes on either side of the nose between 6-8 rows, pull through the neck hole.

1 A needle with a strong thread is inserted into the hole for the neck and brought out into the basting of the eye (farthest from the nose), inserted into the second basting of the eye (closer to the nose) and brought out into the hole for the neck, both threads are well pulled and tied to knots.

In the same order, we tighten the second eye.

Sew the eyes through the not tied hole of the toe of the head.

2 We pull both corners of the mouth over the toe of the head.

We insert a needle with a strong thread into the hole of the toe of the head and bring it out into the basting of the mouth, insert the needle into the next column and bring it out into the hole of the toe of the head.

We pull both strings and tie on knots

In the same order, we tighten the other corner of the mouth.

We supplement the filler in the head and tie it, embroider the mouth.

We sew the head to the calf.

May my toy bring joy to your children !!!

Abbreviations:
Sc – single crochet,

inc – increase,

Dec – decrease

Hdc – half crochet

CH – chain

Material used:

– Amigurumi Line from Círculo: 8008 (Quarry), 2931 (blue nautical), 3583 (cherry), 8990 (black), 8001 (white), 3131 (pink gum), 7567 (cocoa), 2137 (Blue hydrangea), 4146 (yolk), 5203 (greenery), 1289 (canary), 4456 (orange).

– Mollet Wool: Color 0700

– Crochet Needle 2mm

– Tapestry Needle nº16

– 1 pair of eyes for 12mm brown Amigurumi

– Two blue buttons 0.5 cm in diameter.

– 5.5 pattern of the kit makes pompom circle

– Resin Harden for Crochet

– Sanitary water

– Flexible stem with cotton

– Acrylic Fiber for Filling

Size: 30cm

Execution

Foot / Legs 2x

Start with wire 8008 (quarry)

1 row – 6sc in the magic ring = 6sc

2 row – İnc 6x = 12sc

3 row – 1sc 1inc 6x = 18sc

4 row – 2sc 1 inc 6x = 24sc

5 row – 3sc 1 inc 6x = 30sc

6 row – 4sc 1 inc 6x = 36 sc

7 to 9 row – 1sc over each sc 36x = 36sc

10 row – 4sc 1 dec 6x = 30sc

11 row – 3sc 1 dec 6x = 24sc

12 row – (1 dec 6x) 1sc over each sc 12x = 18sc

13 row – (1 dec 3x) 1sc over each sc 12x 12x = 15sc

14 row – 1sc over each sc 15x = 15sc

Change to wire 2931 (blue nautical)

15 row – 2sc 1 inc 5x = 20sc

16 row – Work only the back handle of each sc 4sc 1 inc 4x = 24sc

17 to 24 row 1sc About each sc 24x = 24sc

Finish off the first leg, and on the second, make 3 ch fasten on the first leg with sc so that the part that got bigger after the decreases is facing forward.

With the help of a tapestry needle No. 16 and thread 8008 (quarry), divide the little toes of the Rabbit, passing the thread from the bottom of the foot from row 2 and passing over to row 11. Make two scratches with approximately 6 sc between them.

Body

Start with 2931 thread (blue nautical)

25 row – 1sc over each sc 24x. (1sc on each 3x tea) 1sc on each sc 24x (Work the other side of tea 1sc on each 3x tea) = 54sc

26 row – 1sc over each sc 54x = 54sc

27 row – 8sc 1 inc 6x = 60sc

28 row – 9sc 1 inc 6x = 66sc

29 to 34 row – 1sc over each sc 66x = 66sc

35 row – 9sc 1 dec 6x = 60sc

36 and 37 – 1sc over each sc 60x = 60sc

Change to wire 3583 (cherry)

38 row – Work only the handle inside each sc 1sc over each sc 60x = 60sc

39 row – 8sc 1 dec 6x = 54sc

40 row – 1sc over each sc 54x = 54sc

41 row – 7sc 1dec 6x = 48sc

42 to 44 row – 1sc over each sc 48x = 48sc

45 row – 6sc 1 dec 6x = 42sc

46 and 47 row – 1sc over each sc 42x = 42sc

48 row – 5sc 1 dec 6x = 36sc

49 and 50 row – 1sc over each sc 36x = 36sc

51 row – 4sc 1 dec 6x = 30sc

52 and 53 row – 1sc over each sc 30x = 30sc

54 row – 3sc 1 dec 6x = 24sc

Switch to wire 8008 (quarry)

55 row – Work only the handle inside each sc 1sc over each sc 24x = 24sc

56 row – 1sc over each sc 24x = 24sc

57 row – Work only the front handle of each sc 3sc 1 inc 6x = 30sc

58 row – 4sc 1 inc 6x = 36sc

59 row – 5sc 1 inc 6x = 42sc

60 row – 6sc 1 inc 6x = 48 sc

61 row – 7sc 1 inc 6x = 54sc

62 row – 8sc 1 inc 6x = 60sc

63 row – 9sc 1 inc 6x = 66sc

64 to 71 row – 1sc over each sc 66x = 66sc

72 row – 9sc 1 dec 6x = 60sc

73 row – 8sc 1 dec 6x = 54sc

74 row – 7sc 1 dec 6x = 48sc

75 row – Work only the handle outside each sc 1sc over each sc 48x = 48sc

76 to 80 row – 1sc over each sc 48x = 48 sc

Place the eyes between row 75 and 76 approximately 8sc apart.

81 row – 6sc 1 dec 6x = 42sc

82 row – 5sc 1 dec 6x = 36sc

83 row – 4sc 1 dec 6x = 30sc

84 row – 3sc 1 dec 6x = 24sc

85 row – 2sc 1 dec 6x = 18sc

86 row – 1sc 1 dec 6x = 12sc

87 row – 1 Dec 6x = 6sc

Close with fake magic ring.

Finish.

amigurumi

2x pants bar

Start with 2931 thread (blue nautical)

Attach the thread to the last outside loop, from row 16 of the leg.

1 row – Work only the handle outside each sc 1sc over each sc 24x = 24sc

2 and 3 row – Work only the front handle of each sc 1sc over each sc 24x = 24sc

4 and 5 row – 1sc over each sc24x = 24sc

Fold the bar upwards.

Soak the flexible cotton swab in the bleach and pass all the way around the bar on row 3 and 4, giving the appearance of wear on the pants.

2x Arms

Start with wire 8008 (quarry)

1 row – 6sc in the magic ring = 6sc

2 row – İnc 6x = 12sc

3 row – 1sc 1inc 6x = 18sc

4 row – 2sc 1 inc 6x = 24sc

5 to 8 row – 1sc over each sc 24x = 24sc

9 row – (1 dec 6x) 1sc over each sc 12x = 18sc

10 and 11 row – 1sc over each sc 18x = 18sc

Change to wire 3583 (cherry)

12 row – 1sc over each sc 18x = 18sc

13 row – Work only the back handle of each sc 1sc over each sc 18x = 18sc

14 to 25 row 1sc over each sc 18x = 18sc

26 row 1sc 1 dec 6x = 12sc

27 to 29 row – 1sc about each sc 12x = 12sc

30 row – 1dec 6x = 6sc

Close with fake magic ring.

Finish and leave thread to sew.

With the help of a No. 16 tapestry needle, sew the arms on the side of the body between row 52 and 53 with approximately 12 sc of distance between each other. Sew by passing the thread under the fake magic ring that closed the arm and inside the little body. Do this until the seam is firm.

Finish.

With 8990 thread and tapestry needle No. 16, make the part that was woven with thread 3583 (cherry) of the body and arms vertical streaks with a space of 3 sc between each other.

Do this all the way around, then make horizontal streaks with the 3 row space between them, thus giving the bunny the appearance of wearing a plaid shirt.

Finish.

2x shirt hem

Start with 3583 cord (cherry)

Attach the wire to the outside row 13 handle of the arm at the last sc

1 row – Work only the handle outside each sc 1sc over each sc 18x = 18sc

2 row – 1sc over each sc 18x = 18sc

3 row – Work only the handle outside each sc 1sc over each sc 18x = 18sc

4 and 5 row – 1sc over each sc 18x = 18sc

Finish.

Fold the hem of the shirt upwards.

Front of overalls

Start wired 2931 (blue nautical)

Mark sc that is right in the center of the rabbit’s tummy in row 38, and count 8 sc for each side so that there is a space of 16 sc where the front of the jumpsuit will be woven, attach the thread to the first sc of this marking.

1 row – Work only the handle outside each sc 1sc over each sc 16x = 16sc

2 to 12 – 1sc over each sc 16x = 16 sc

To finish, make 1sc on each gap between a row and another on the front side of the suit, and then 1sc on each sc 44x, go up the other side of the suit doing the same thing you did on the other side 1sc in the gaps between one row and another .

Finish.

2x jumpsuit strap

Start wired 2931 (blue nautical)

Count 14 sc backwards from the sides of the suit and secure the thread to the 15th sc

1 row – 36 Ch

2 row – Start on the second ch 1sc over each ch 35x = 35sc

Fasten with sl st in row again

Finish.

Cross the two straps on the back and attach them to the front of the jumpsuit with the help of a tapestry needle with 2931 thread (blue nautical) and buttons.

Finish.

3x Pockets

Start with 2931 thread (blue nautical)

Do not close the magic ring work in half moon, with each new row make 1 ch and turn the work.

1 row – 6sc inside the magic ring = 6sc

2 row – 1 İnc 6x = 12sc

3 row – 1sc 1 inc 6x = 18sc

4 row – To finish the pockets, make 1 sc between the spans of a row and another at the top of the piece when finished, continue doing 1 sc over each sc 18x until you reach the last sc

Finish and leave thread to sew.

With the help of a # 16 tapestry needle, sew the pockets, one on each side of the rabbit’s legs at the front between row 25 and 35 with approximately 11sc of distance between them, sew the third pocket on the front of the jumpsuit between row 4 and 10. Sew the pockets taking only the strap outside each sc Passing the thread over the pocket strap and inside the body, do not sew the top so that the pockets are open.

When finishing the sewing with the help of a tapestry needle nº 16 and thread 2137 (Blue hydrangea), make at the edges of the scratchy pockets passing over one sc yes another sc Do not make these scratches at the top of the pockets.

To “wash” the pockets, soak the swab in the bleach and pass over the rows 1,2,3, being careful not to drip on any other part of the piece.

publicity

Tail

Start with 0700 mollet wire (aluminum)

Use the 5.5 cm template of the Kit Faz Pompom Círculo, to make a pompom with the mollet 0700 yarn, and with universal glue for Circle crafts, glue the tail on the rabbit’s butt between row 31 and 33.

Snout

Start wired 8001 (white)

1 row – 13 Ch

2 row – Start on the second ch 1sc on each 12x ch. Work the other side of the 1sc ch on each 12x = 24sc ch

3 row – 1sc over each sc 24x = 24sc

4 row – 3sc 1 inc 6x = 30sc

5 row – 4sc 1 inc 6x = 36sc

6 row – 5sc 1 inc 6x = 42sc

7 to 11 row – 1sc over each sc 42x = 42sc

Finish and leave thread to sew.

With the help of a No. 16 tapestry needle, sew the 1row muzzle below the eyes, so that the muzzle is centered in relation to them. Sew by passing the thread over the sc of the muzzle and inside the face. To make the muzzle filling easier, when 3 or 4sc is missing to finish the seam, place the filling until the muzzle is fluffy.

Finish.

Nose

Start with 3131 thread (pink gum)

1 row – 6sc inside the magic ring = 6sc

2 row – 1sc 1 inc 6x = 12sc

3 row – 1sc over each sc 12x 12x = 12sc

Finish and leave a long thread to sew and mark the muzzle.

With the help of a No. 16 tapestry needle, sew the nose between rows 7 and 11 at the top of the muzzle, sew the nose by passing the thread over the nose sc and inside the muzzle until you have sewed all the sc From the nose , still with the 3131 thread (pink gum) make a streak that comes out of the tip of the nose and goes to the bottom of the snout. Pass the needle inside and get out again on the tip of the nose. Repeat the process and pull the wire tightly, so that the center of the snout is well marked.

Finish.

4x ears

Make two parts with wire 8001 (white) to be the inner part of the ear and two with wire 8008 (quarry) to be the outer part.

1 row – 28 Ch

2 row – Start on the third ch 1hdc over each 25x ch. (4hdc on the same 1x ch) work the other side of the 1hdc ch on each 25x ch. = 54hdc

3 row – Make 1 tea and turn the work. 1sc on each 25x hdc. (1 inc in 4x hdc) 1sc over each 25x hdc = 58sc

4 row – Make 1 tea and turn the work. 1sc over each 20x sc. (1hdc on each 5x sc) 1 inc in hdc on each 8x sc, (1hdc on each 5x sc). 1sc over each sc 20x = 66sc

5 row – Make 1 tea and turn the work. 1sc on each sc 20x (1hdc on each sc 26x) 1sc on each sc 20x = 66sc

Join the two parts of the ear using wire 8008 (quarry) making 1sc over each sc 66x = 66sc around the ear, and 1 sc over each gap between a row and another in the part that was straight from the ear.

Finish and leave thread to sew.

With the help of a # 16 tapestry needle, sew the ears on the side of the rabbit’s head between rows 83 and 84 with approximately 16 sc of distance between each other in front and 3 sc of distance behind, with the gray part facing up and the white part down, it is important to respect this distance so that the cap fits snugly on the head.

Sew the ears by passing the thread over the sc of the ear and inside the head, sew only the straight part of the ears.

Finish.

Hat

Start with 2931 thread (blue nautical)

1 row – 6sc In the magic ring = 6sc

2 row – İnc 6x = 12sc

3 row – 1sc 1inc 6x = 18sc

4 row – 2sc 1 inc 6x = 24sc

5 row – 3sc 1 inc 6x = 30sc

6 row – 4sc 1 inc 6x = 36 sc

7 row – 1sc over each 4x sc. (go up 12 ch skip 7sc and fasten again in the row with 1sc 1x) 1sc over each sc 4x. (go up 12 ch skip 7sc and fasten again in the row with 1sc 1x) 1sc over each sc 12x = 46sc

8 row – 1sc on each sc 4x (1sc on each sc 12x) 1sc on each sc 5x (1sc on each 12x sc.) 1sc on each sc 13x = 46sc

9 row – (1 inc 1x) 1sc over each sc33x (1 inc 1 x) 1sc over each sc 11x = 48sc

10 row – 7sc 1 inc 6x = 54sc

11 row – 8sc 1 inc 6x = 60sc

12 to 14 row – 1sc on each sc 60x = 60sc 15 row – 1sc on each sc 5x. Do not work the rest of the row

Cap flap

Start with 2931 thread (blue nautical)

16 row – Make 1 tea and turn the work. Work only the handle off each sc 1sc over each sc 20x = 20sc

17 row – Make 1 tea and turn the work. 1sc over each sc 19x = 19 sc Do not work the last sc in the row

18 row – Make 1 tea and turn the work. 1sc over each sc 18x = 18 sc Do not work the last sc in the row

19 row – Make 1 tea and turn the work. 1sc over each sc 17x = 17 sc Do not work the last sc from row

20 row – Make 1 tea and turn the work. 1sc over each sc 16x = 16 sc Do not work the last sc in the row

21 row – Make 1 tea and turn the work. 1sc over each sc 15x = 15 sc Do not work the last sc in the row

22 row – Make 1 tea and turn the work. 1sc over each sc 14x = 14 sc Do not work the last sc in the row

23 car. – Make 1 tea and turn the work. 1sc over each sc 13x = 13 sc Do not work the last sc in the row

To finish the cap make 2sc within the last sc of row 23 and then 1sc between each span of a row and another on the side of the cap, make 2sc in the gap between row 15 and 16 that started the cap flap and then 1 sc over each sc 40x around the cap, when you reach the last sc in row 17 make 2 sc between the span of row 16 and 17, go up the side of the cap flap making 1 sc between each span of a row and another, when reaching the last sc of row 23 do 1 scx

Finish.

Put the cap on the bunny.

Basket

Start with thread 7567 (cocoa)

1 row – 6sc in the magic ring = 6sc

2 row – inc 6x = 12sc

3 row – 1sc 1inc 6x = 18sc

4 row – 2sc 1 inc 6x = 24sc

5 row – 3sc 1 inc 6x = 30sc

6 row – 4sc 1 inc 6x = 36 sc

7 row – 5sc 1 inc 6x = 42 sc

8 row – 6sc 1 inc 6x = 48sc

9 row – Work only the handle inside each sc, go up 3 ch and make 1dc over each sc 48x. = 48dc Close the row

10 to 17 row – Climb 3 ch Work in basketwork. 1dc over each 3x dc. caught by the back of the stitch and 1dc on each dc 3x caught by the front of the stitch. 8x = 48dc Close the row

18 row – 1p. crab (low point done backwards) on each dc 48x = 48p. crab.

Finish.

To finish the basket, attach the wire 7567 (cocoa) to the handle outside the first sc of row 9 and make 1 foot. crab in each sc 48x = 48p. crab.

Finish.

2x basket handle

Start with thread 7567 (cocoa)

Cut 12 pieces of wire approximately 20 cm long. Glue the basket with universal glue for circle crafts so that it looks like a backpack strap.

Pass Resin Harden Circle Crochet inside the basket so that it stays firm.

Dress the backpack on the rabbit.

Carrot 2x

Start with wire 4146 (yolk)

1 row – 6sc inside the magic ring = 6sc

2 row – 1sc over each sc 6x = 6sc

3 row – 1sc 1 inc 3x = 9sc

4 row – 1sc over each sc 9x = 9sc

5 row 2sc 1 inc 3x = 12sc

6 to 9 – 1sc over each sc 12x = 12sc

10 row – 1 Dec 6x = 6sc

Foliage

Change to 5203 wire (greenery)

11 row – 1 scx (go up 12 ch down 1scx over each 12x ch). Attach it to the row again with 1pbx, do this same process 6x, thus forming the carrot foliage.

Finish.

Place the carrots in the Easter Bunny basket.

Little Egg 1

Start with 1289 wire (canary)

1 row – 6sc inside the magic ring = 6sc

2 row – 1 İnc 6x = 12sc

3 row – 1sc 1 inc 6x = 18sc

4 to 6 row – 1sc over each sc 18x = 18sc

7 row – 1sc 1 dec 6x = 12sc

8 to 10 row – 1sc over each 12x sc = 12sc

11 row – 1 Dec 6x = 6sc

Close with fake magic ring.

Finish.

Little Egg 2

Start with cord 2137 (Blue Hydrangea)

1 row – 6sc inside the magic ring = 6sc

2 row – 1 İnc 6x = 12sc

3 row – 1sc 1 inc 6x = 18sc

4 to 6 row – 1sc over each sc 18x = 18sc

7 row – 1sc 1 dec 6x = 12sc

8 to 10 row – 1sc over each 12x sc = 12sc

11 row – 1 Dec 6x = 6sc

Close with fake magic ring.

Finish.

With the aid of a tapestry needle nº16 and thread 1289 (canary) embroider floret all around the egg and above the initial magic ring, and the false magic ring.

Finish.

Little Egg 3

Start with 1289 wire (canary)

1 row – 6sc inside the magic ring = 6sc

2 row – 1 İnc 6x = 12sc

3 row – 1sc 1 inc 6x = 18sc

Change to wire 2137 (Blue hydrangea),

4 to 6 row – 1sc over each sc 18x = 18sc

7 row – 1sc 1 dec 6x = 12sc

8 to 10 row – 1sc over each 12x sc = 12sc

Change to wire 1289 (canary)

11 row – 1 Dec 6x = 6sc

Close with fake magic ring.

Finish.

With the aid of a tapestry needle nº16 and thread 1289 (canary) embroider floret in the part that was woven with thread 2137 (Blue hydrangea).

Finish.

Little Egg 4

Start with 1289 wire (canary)

1 row – 6sc Inside the magic ring = 6sc

2 row – 1 İnc 6x = 12sc

3 row – 1sc 1 inc 6x = 18sc

Change to wire 8001 (white)

4 to 6 row – 1sc over each sc 18x = 18sc

7 row – 1sc 1 dec 6x = 12sc

8 to 10 row – 1sc over each 12x sc = 12sc

Change to wire 1289 (canary)

11 row – 1 Dec 6x = 6sc

Close with fake magic ring.

Finish.

With the aid of a tapestry needle nº16 and thread 1289 (canary) embroider small “v” on the part that was woven with thread 8001 (white).

Finish.

Little Egg 5

Start with 5203 wire (greenery)

1 row – 6sc inside the magic ring = 6sc

2 row – 1 İnc 6x = 12sc

3 row – 1sc 1 inc 6x = 18sc

Change to wire 1289 (canary)

4 to 6 row – 1sc over each sc 18x = 18sc

7 row – 1sc 1 dec 6x = 12sc

Change to wire 5203 (greenery)

8 row – 1sc about each sc 12x = 12sc

Change to wire 1289 (canary)

9 and 10 row – 1sc over each 12x sc = 12sc

Change to wire 5203 (greenery)

11 row – 1 Dec 6x = 6sc

Close with fake magic ring.

Finish.

With the aid of a tapestry needle nº16 and thread 5203 (greenery) border between row 4 and 7 streaks in zigzag and between rows 9 and 10 small vertical streaks.

Finish.

Little Egg 6

Start with wire 4456 (orange).

1 row – 6sc Inside the magic ring = 6sc

2 row – 1 İnc 6x = 12sc

3 row – 1sc 1 inc 6x = 18sc

Change to wire 8001 (white)

4 to 6 row – 1sc over each sc 18x = 18sc

7 row – 1sc 1 dec 6x = 12sc

Change to wire 4456 (orange).

8 row – 1sc about each sc 12x = 12sc

Change to wire 8001 (white)

9 and 10 row – 1sc over each 12x sc = 12sc

Change to wire 4456 (orange).

11 row – 1 Dec 6x = 6sc

Close with fake magic ring.

Finish.

With the aid of a tapestry needle nº16 and thread 4456 (orange) border between row 9 and 10 zigzag stripes.

Finish.

Place the eggs in the bunny basket.