Cleo Doll Amigurumi Free Crochet Pattern
Carefully selected amigurumi doll patterns are free for you on this site. here is one of them amigurumi cleo doll pattern.
Required materials and tools:
1) yarn “Podmoskovnaya” from Troitsk (50% wool, 50% acrylic, 250m / 100g) in “champagne” color for the body – 0.5 pcs;
2) Yarn “Bambino” Kamtex (35% wool, 65% acrylic, 150m / 50g) turquoise – 1 pc .;
3) yarn “Bambino” Kamtex (35% wool, 65% acrylic, 150m / 50g) beige – 2 pcs .;
4) Yarn “Bambino” Kamtex (35% wool, 65% acrylic, 150m / 50g) white – 0.5 – 1 pc .;
5) Yarn “Bambino” Kamtex (35% wool, 65% acrylic, 150m / 50g) of dark beige or terracotta color – 1 piece;
6) Yarn “Bambino” Kamtex (35% wool, 65% acrylic, 150m / 50g) pink (or raspberry) – 0.5 pcs;
7) white Softi yarn – a little;
8) thread “Iris” or “Mouline” brown for the eyes – a little;
9) nylon thread or fishing line for tightening – a little;
10) filler (holofiber, or synthetic winterizer, or synthetic fluff) – 150 – 200g .;
11) aluminum wire for weaving with a diameter of 2 mm for the frame – 2.5 – 3 m;
12) white felt for the eyes – a little;
13) eyes for dolls with a blue ray with a diameter of 25 mm – 1 pair;
14) false or doll eyelashes;
15) transparent super-glue for attaching eyes and eyelashes – a little;
16) a needle with a large eye;
17) hook number 3;
18) colored pins for marking;
19) white cloth adhesive plaster or electrical tape for wrapping the ends of the wire;
20) white plastic or thick cardboard for insoles – a little;
21) buttons with a diameter of 10 mm – 7 pcs .;
22) scissors;
23) rubber bands for hair – 2 pcs.;
24) satin ribbon 4 – 5 mm wide in turquoise color for bows (optional);
25) rhinestones, beads for decoration (optional);
26) dry pastel pink and dark blue for toning (optional).
Important! You can use any thread, picking up the hooks of the required size for them!
The list of materials is approximate, I can correct it as I work, since I myself will knit this toy for the first time.
The conventions I use:
CH – chain;
CHH – chain lifting loop;
SC – single crochet;
INC – single crochet increase;
DEC – single crochet decrease;
DC – double crochet;
INCDC – Column Increase with Crochet
DECDC – double crochet decrease;
HDC – half double crochet;
INCHDC – half double crochet increase;
DECHDC – double crochet decrease;
SL-ST – slip stitch;
BLO – back half loop;
FLO – front half loop.
Let’s start with the simplest stage.
Stage 1. Head.
We knit with flesh-colored threads in a spiral, crochet number 3 (or whatever you chose for the main knitting).
1st row: 6 SC into magic ring (6)
2nd row: 6 INC (12)
3 row: (SC, INC) * 6 (18)
4th row: SC, INC, (2 SC, INC) * 5, SC (24)
5 row: (3 SC, INC) * 6 (30)
6 row: 2 SC, INC, (4 SC, INC) * 5, 2 SC (36)
7 row: (5 SC, INC) * 6 (42)
8 row: 3 SC, INC, (6 SC, INC) * 5, 3 SC (48)
9 row: (7 SC, INC) * 6 (54)
10 row: 4 SC, INC, (8 SC, INC) * 5, 4 SC (60)
11 row: (9 SC, INC) * 6 (66)
12th row: 5 SC, INC, (10 SC, INC) * 5, 5 SC (72)
13-20 row (8 rows): 72 SC (72)
21 row: 36 SC, (INC, 6 SC) * 5, INC (78)
22 – 26 row (5 rows): 78 SC (78)
27 row: 36 SC, DEC, (6 SC, DEC) * 5 (72)
28 row: 5 SC, DEC, (10 SC, DEC) * 5, 5 SC (66)
29 row: (9 SC, DEC) * 6 (60)
30 row: 4 SC, DEC, (8 SC, DEC) * 5, 4 SC (54)
31 row: (7 SC, DEC) * 6 (48)
32 row: 3 SC, DEC, (6 SC, DEC) * 5, 3 SC (42)
33 row: (5 SC, DEC) * 6 (36)
34 row: 2 SC, DEC, (4 SC, DEC) * 5, 2 SC (30)
35 row: (3 SC, DEC) * 6 (24)
36 row: SC, DEC, (2 SC, DEC) * 5, SC (18)
37 row: (SC, DEC) * 6 (12)
We fix the thread, cut it off. We fill our head with filler (see photo).
Good day! Go ahead, hold the new stage!
Stage 2. Handles.
First, we knit a mitten with white threads.
1st row: 6 SC into magic ring (6)
2nd row: 6 INC (12)
3rd row: (5 SC, INC) * 2 (14)
4-8 row (5 rows): 14 SC (14)
9th row: SC, 4 HDC with one vertex, 12 SC (14)
10 row: 14 SC (14)
11 row: (DEC, 5 SC) * 2 (12)
12 row: 12 SC (12)
Change the thread to raspberry.
13 row: 12 SC (12)
14 row: for BLO 12 SC (12)
Cut off about 35 cm of wire. We make a small loop at one end so that you can insert it into your palm. We twist the ends of the wire together, insulate with tissue adhesive tape or electrical tape. We make 2 such blanks.
We insert the wire blank into the handle.
15 – 33 row (19 rows): 12 SC (12)
We fill the handle with filler while knitting. We fix the thread, cut it off.
We knit an elastic band-lapel for a mittens with white threads.
1st row: we cast on 3 CH + 1 CHH, from the second from the loop hook we knit along the chain 3 SC, CH, turn (3)
2 – 19 (18 rows): behind BLO 3 SC, CH, turn (3)
We connect the edges of the elastic by knitting SC for both half-loops.
We fix the thread, leave the long end for sewing, cut it off.
We put on an elastic band-lapel on the handle and sew on the half-loops left in the 14th row, where they knitted for BLO.
We knit the second handle in the same way.
Stage 3. Legs.
We begin to knit with brown threads.
1st row: we cast on 10 CH + 2 CHH, in the third loop from the hook we knit 4 DC, then 8 DC along the chain from CH, 5 DC into the last loop, 8 DC on the other side of the chain from CH, SL-ST (26)
2nd row: 2 CHH, DC in the same loop, 4 INCDC, 8 DC, 5 INCDC, 8 DC, SL-ST (36)
3rd row: 2 CHH, DC in the same loop, DC, (INCDC, DC) * 4, 8 DC, (INCDC, DC) * 5, 8 DC, SL-ST (46)
According to the resulting trace, cut out the insoles from plastic (2 pcs.)
4th row: 46 SC for BLO (46)
5 row: 46 SC (46)
6 row: 46 SC for BLO (46)
7 row: 46 SC (46)
8-9 row: 18 HDC, 28 SC (46)
Note! 18 HDCs are located in the center of the toe, if necessary we knit offset loops.
10 row: 9 DEC, 13 SC, DEC, 13 SC (36)
We insert the plastic insole into the leg.
11 row: 5 DEC, 12 SC, DEC, 12 SC (30)
Cut off about 80 cm of wire. Fold the wire in half, make a small loop at the end a little smaller than the tied foot. We twist the ends of the wire together. We make 2 such blanks (see the last photo).
We insert the wire blank into the leg. We fill the leg with filler.
Change the thread to turquoise.
12 row: for BLO (3 SC, DEC) * 6 (24)
13 row: (2 SC, DEC) * 6 (18)
14 – 38 (25 rows): 18 SC (18)
We tie the last 38th row to the middle of the inner side of the leg. We fix the thread, cut it off.
We fill the leg with filler.
We attach a brown thread to the first half-loop of the 12th row, where we knitted for BLO, and knit the upper part of the boot.
1 – 9 (9 rows): 30 SC (30)
In the 9th row, we do not cut the thread, make CH and turn the knitting (with the foot away from ourselves), knit the lapel of the boot.
1st row: for BLO 30 SC (30)
Row 2 – 3: 30 SC (30)
We fix the brown thread, cut it off, hide the ends.
Sew a small button on the lapel of the boot, decorate the boot with rhinestones (optional).
We knit the second leg in the same way, but we do not cut the turquoise thread in the 38th row of knitting.
Girls, hello everyone! Today I will place a stapler with ties so that those who have already tied the legs, arms, head have something to do.
P.S. According to the plan, there should be a stage with a description of the calf, but our teeth are teething, we scream and do not get off our hands, so the parts of the pupa’s body are not yet put together.
For convenience, I will divide this stage into 2 parts.
Stage 4. Tightening.
Part 1. Eye shaping.
First, using colored pins, we make markings for eye tightening.
1) We count 18 rows of SC down from the crown and put a blue pin in the center of the protruding part of the head (see photo).
2) We count from the blue pin 5 SC to the left and 2 SC up, put a green pin (point).
3) We count from the green pin (point) 1 SC up and put the purple pin (point).
4) We count from the blue pin (point) 5 SC to the right and 2 SC up, put a red pin (point).
5) We count from the red pin (point) 1 SC up and put the pink pin (point).
6) In the last row of knitting the head, perpendicular to the blue pin, put a yellow pin (point) (see photo).
We make an eye tightening using a long needle and a nylon thread (or fishing line) as follows:
we insert the needle at the yellow point, draw it out at the green point, again insert the needle at the purple point and draw it out at the pink point, then insert the needle at the red point and draw it out into the open hole of the head. Tighten the thread slightly, tie the ends into several knots and hide them in the open hole of the head.
Stage 4. Tightening.
Part 2. Chin tightening.
First, we make the markings for tightening the chin using colored pins.
1) The yellow pin (dot) remains in the last row of knitting in the same place where we put it when marking to tighten the eyes.
2) We count from the yellow pin (point) 3 rows SC up and 3 SC to the left, put a blue pin (point).
3) We count from the blue pin (point) 1 SC to the left and 2 SC up, put a pink pin (point).
4) We count from the yellow pin (point) 3 rows SC up and 3 SC to the right, put a green pin (point).
5) We count from the green pin (point) 1 SC to the right and 2 SC up, put a purple pin (point) (see photo).
Using a long needle and a nylon thread (or fishing line), we tighten the chin as follows:
we insert the needle at the yellow point, draw it out in the blue one, again insert the needle at the pink point and draw it out in the purple one, then insert the needle at the green point and draw it out into the open hole of the head. We tighten the thread, tie the ends into several knots, hide them in the open hole of the head.
Good day! Finally, hold the chopper with the calf!
Stage 5. Body.
We attach the turquoise thread to the leg, where the loop was left untightened in the last row of knitting (I have it the left leg), dial 3 CH and connect with the second leg:
1 row: 18 SC on the leg, 3 SC on the CH chain, 18 SC on the second leg, 3 SC on the other side of the CH chain (42)
Note! The body is knitted symmetrically, so it doesn’t matter which leg you start with.
2nd row: 42 SC (42)
We twist the wire coming from the legs together, isolate it with fabric adhesive tape or electrical tape.
3 row: (6 SC, INC) * 6 (48)
4 – 6 rows (3 rows): 48 SC (48)
7 row: (7 SC, INC) * 6 (54)
8-10 row (3 rows): 54 SC (54)
11 row: (7 SC, DEC) * 6 (48)
12 row: (6 SC, DEC) * 6 (42)
We tie it up to the middle of the side, transfer the marker here.
Change the thread to raspberry.
13 – 19 row (7 rows): 42 SC (42)
20 row: (5 SC, DEC) * 6 (36)
21 – 26 rows (6 rows): 36 SC (36)
We do not tie the 26th row to the middle of the side (beginning of the row) 2 SC, then we will attach the handles.
We fill the body with filler.
27 row: 4 SC together with the handle (at the same time grab the SC bodies and SC handles), 14 SC on the body, 4 SC together with the second handle, 14 SC on the body (36)
28 row: 8 SC on the handle, 14 SC on the body, 8 SC on the second handle, 14 SC on the body (44)
We fasten the wire from the handles to the general winding coming from the legs, well insulate with fabric adhesive tape or electrical tape.
29 row: (8 SC, DEC, 10 SC, DEC) * 2 (40)
30 row: (8 SC, DEC) * 4 (36)
31 row: (4 SC, DEC) * 6 (30)
32 row: (3 SC, DEC) * 6 (24)
We fill the body and shoulders with filler.
We change the thread to bodily.
33 row: for BLO {SC, DEC, (2 SC, DEC) * 5, SC} (18)
34 row: (SC, DEC) * 6 (12)
35 – 39 row (5 rows): 12 SC (12)
We fix the thread, leave the long end for sewing on the head, cut it off.
We attach the crimson thread to the first left half loop of the 33rd row, where we knitted for BLO, and tie the collar: 24 SL-ST (24)
We fix the raspberry thread, cut it off, hide the ends.
Girls, everyone! Today is my favorite stage with design!
Stage 6. Face shaping.
We decorate the eyes.
1) Cut out two blanks for the eyes from white felt, look at the shape in the photo.
Note! For those who crocheted No. 3 from threads similar in density to those indicated by me, the size of the felt details is approximately 30 * 28 mm. The rest adjust the size of the eyes visually to the size of the resulting head.
2) We make small cuts in the center of the resulting blanks.
3) Insert blue eyes-pupils with a diameter of 25 mm into the incisions.
4) We try on the resulting eyes on the head.
5) Sew on the felt details of the eyes with brown “Iris” or “Mouline” threads with small stitches with an overcast seam.
6) We smear the pupils of the eyes on the back with transparent super glue and glue.
Note! If you have eyes with a foot or a screw in the back, you don’t need to file them! Stretch the loop on the head where the pupils should be, and insert the leg or screw into the head, then glue the pupil. So the eye will hold more securely!
7) On the edge of the eye, glue false eyelashes with transparent super-glue (see photo).
We decorate the nose.
We step back from the inner corners of the eyes 1 row SC down and embroider a nose 2 SC wide with three or four stitches with flesh-colored threads. Then we embroider the contour of the nose with brown threads “Iris” or “Mouline” (see photo).
Go up 1 – 2 rows SC up above the eyes and embroider small eyebrows with brown “Iris” or “Mouline” threads (see photo).
We decorate the sponges.
We step back from the nose 2 rows of SC down and embroider the sponges with dense raspberry threads. First, we embroider the contour of the lips, then fill the space inside the embroidered contour with horizontal stitches, apply the satin stitch technique.
We decorate the ears.
We count from the crown of the 13-14 rows of SC down and in the middle of the head on the sides with a chain stitch we embroider the contour of the ear (see photo). We do not cut the thread, but for the obtained loops we knit SC, thus we get ears.
Girls, all the good time of the day! Today we are doing hair and hairstyle for Oktyabrinka!
Divided into 2 parts for convenience.
Stage 7. Hair.
Part 1. Marking and preparation of hair.
First, we make markings on the head, designate the future “hairline”. To do this, take brown threads “Iris” or “Mouline thread” and embroider “hair growth lines” with large stitches (see photo).
We make the workpiece of the hair itself from dark beige yarn or any other color that you have prepared for the hair. We take a book or any rectangular object 12 cm high / wide, wrap it in height / width with threads, then cut the threads from one edge with scissors (see photo).
The resulting hairs are approximately 24 cm long.
Note! We harvest the hair as needed so as not to spoil the extra strings.
Stage 7. Hair.
Part 2. Hair attachment.
We attach the hair to the head like a fringe: holding the hook in the direction “from the crown of the head”, insert it under the SC, grab the hair folded in half, pull out the loop, thread the ends of the hair into the pulled loop, tighten.
Thus, we fix the hair first along the contour of the “hairline”, then fill in all the space inside these lines (see photo).
Note! Hair should be attached under each SC, but across the SC row.
Sew the finished head to the body.
We collect hair in ponytails under an elastic band. You can immediately tie turquoise ribbons (optional).
Girls, hello everyone! Who is already ready to dress up Oktyabrinka ?! Keep the new stage!
Stage 8. Scarf and headphones.
SCARF.
We begin to knit with white threads.
1 row: we collect 8 CH + 1 CHH, from the second from the hook of the loop we knit along the chain 8 SC, CH, turn (8)
2 – 6 (5 rows): 8 SC, CH, turn (8)
Change the thread to turquoise.
7 – 8 row: 8 SC, CH, turn (8)
So alternate {6 rows of white, 2 rows of turquoise} 6 more times, finish knitting with white rows.
We do not cut the thread on the last row, we tie the scarf on the four sides of the SC. We fix the thread, cut it off.
At the ends of the scarf, we fix a turquoise or white fringe about 2 cm long in the same way as we attached the hair to the doll.
HEADPHONES.
1) First, we make a blank frame from a wire with a diameter of 2 mm (see photo).
Headphone rings with a diameter of approximately 3 cm, the arc between the rings is 11 cm.
Note! We measure the arc between the rings along the head of our pupa, it may differ from mine.
2) We knit the inner part of the earphone with the white Softy thread (2 parts).
1st row: 6 SC into magic ring (6)
2nd row: 6 INC (12)
3rd row: 2 CH lifts, DC in the same loop, DC, (INCDC, DC) * 5, SL-ST (18)
4th row: 2 CH lifts, DC in the same loop, 2 DC, (INCDC, 2 DC) * 5, SL-ST (24)
We fix the thread, cut it off.
3) Then we also knit the outer part of the earphone (cup) with the white Softy thread.
1st row: 6 SC into magic ring (6)
2nd row: 6 INC (12)
3rd row: 2 CH lifts, DC in the same loop, DC, (INCDC, DC) * 5, SL-ST (18)
4th row: 2 CH lifts, DC in the same loop, 2 DC, (INCDC, 2 DC) * 5, SL-ST (24)
5 row: 2 CHH, 23 DC (24)
We fix and cut the thread on one cup, and on the second we leave the loop in the last row of knitting untightened and continue to connect the inner and outer parts SC: 18
SC, lightly fill the cup of the earphone with filler, insert the wire blank, 6 SC.
We do not cut the thread again, we continue to tie the headphone rim from the SC wire.
We knit enough SC so that the wire on the rim does not show through.
When we come to the opposite ring of the headphones, insert the ring inside the cup and reconnect the inner and outer parts of the SC earphone: 18 SC, lightly fill the cup with filler, 6 SC.
We fix the thread, cut it off.
Girls, all the good time of the day! Let’s dress up the doll further! Keep the final stage!
Stage 9. Coat.
First, we knit sleeves (2 pcs.) With St.-beige threads.
1st row: we collect 24 CH and close them in a ring (24)
2 – 20 (19 rows): 24 SC (24)
We fix the thread, cut it off.
Attach the T-beige thread to the first half-loop of the 1st row of knitting from the inside of the sleeve so that the purl SCs go on the front side, and knit a cuff on the sleeve.
1 – 2 row: 24 SC (24)
We fix the thread, cut it off.
Note! If you want a wide cuff on the sleeve, then knit not 2, but 4 – 5 rows.
We roll up a part of the sleeve made of dark beige threads.
We knit a coat with St.-beige threads in rotary rows.
1 row: we cast on 66 CH + 1 CHH, from the second from the loop hook we knit along the chain 66 SC, CH, turn (66)
2 – 6 (5 rows): 66 SC, CH, turn (66)
7 row: 4 SC, DEC, (9 SC, DEC) * 5, 5 SC, CH, turn (60)
8 – 16 (9 rows): 60 SC, CH, turn (60)
17 row: 4 SC, DEC, (8 SC, DEC) * 5, 4 SC, CH, turn (54)
18 – 26 (9 rows): 54 SC, CH, turn (54)
27 row: 3 SC, DEC, (7 SC, DEC) * 5, 4 SC, CH, turn (48)
28 – 33 (6 rows): 48 SC, CH, turn (48)
In the next row we tie the sleeves.
34 row: 7 SC along the coat, 8 SC together with the sleeve (we grab the SC coat and sleeves at the same time), 18 SC along the coat, 8 SC together with the second sleeve, 7 SC along the coat, CH, turn (48)
35 row: 7 SC on the coat, 16 SC on the sleeve, 18 SC on the coat, 16 SC on the other sleeve, 7 SC on the coat, CH, turn (64)
36 row: 6 SC, DEC, 14 SC on the sleeve, DEC, 16 SC on the back, DEC, 14 SC on the other sleeve, DEC, 6 SC, CH, turn (60)
37 row: 6 SC, DEC, 12 SC, DEC, 16 SC, DEC, 12 SC, DEC, 6 SC, CH, turn (56)
38 row: 6 SC, DEC, 10 SC, DEC, 16 SC, DEC, 10 SC, DEC, 6 SC, CH, turn (52)
39 row: 6 SC, DEC, 8 SC, DEC, 16 SC, DEC, 8 SC, DEC, 6 SC, CH, turn (48)
40 row: 6 SC, DEC, 6 SC, DEC, 16 SC, DEC, 6 SC, DEC, 6 SC, CH, turn (44)
41 row: 6 SC, DEC, 4 SC, DEC, 16 SC, DEC, 4 SC, DEC, 6 SC, CH, turn (40)
42 row: 6 SC, DEC, 2 SC, DEC, 16 SC, DEC, 2 SC, DEC, 6 SC, CH, turn (36)
43 row: 2 SC, DEC, (4 SC, DEC) * 5, 2 SC, CH, turn (30)
44 row: we tie the fabric along the contour SC: 180 SC (180).
Change the thread to t-beige and once again tie the fabric along the SC contour.
45 row: 145 SC, 10 CH, SL-ST in the same loop as the last SC, {6 SC, 10 CH, SL-ST in the same loop as the last SC} * 6.
We fix the thread, cut it off.
Sew 7 buttons on the left side of the coat opposite the loops.
We decorate the coat at our discretion (optional).
